so I want a line with a tip that actually floats. It will be a 5 weight for trout.
How are SA, and RIO lines now?
I was not happy with the SA line I bought several years ago with its performance (out of the box, not after years of use). At the time, RIO seemed to be better. I am not sure of the current state of affairs…
I have always had great luck with Cortland classic 444’s. But the Rio’s I’ve used have the advantage of the welded loop at the end if floating the tip is really important to you.
I’m a big fan of the welded loops, with one of the chief benefits being that I think they float better than lines that are open on the end or that have those braided loops. I have multiple Rio lines (Grand and Trout) and a couple of the Scientific Angler’s (GPX and Trout), all with the welded loops. Each float better than my lines without those loops, but in my experience the tips of the Rios float much better than the SA’s.
I use a variety of lines, Cortland 333 & 444, Orvis, Sci Anglers, & H&H, and they all float. I clean and dress them regularly, and use a Zap - a - Gap connection which seals the end.
I’m going to ask a really stupid question!! Why is it so important that the tip of the fly line floats!!?? Is the leader floating? Is the tippet floating? And, most important is the dry fly floating? Cleaning and applying floatant may be the simplest and cheapest answer to your problem!
I apply gink to the leader and first 6-8" of fly line tip when going “dry” flying. Those big ‘welded’ loops seem to cause more trouble than they are worth when dry fly fishing. I feel that in most situations, the good ole nail-knotted leader to fly line connection gives the angler the most controll with presentation; and, allows the line tip to float higher—less stuff to drag.
I agree, I put on a new Orvis Wonderline this past spring and have fought that huge welded loop all season long. The line floats well, but not any more so than any other I’ve used in the past. That welded loop sure gives me headaches when using longer leaders.
For me it isn’t about the fly floating, it’s about keeping it floating longer after multiple casts without resorting to drying & re-dressing. I don’t know about anybody else but for me, a floating line tip helps me with the pick-up of the fly. In certain fishing situations when the leader butt or line tip is sinking it has the effect of pulling the fly under on pick-up. When the leader butt and tip are floating high, I don’t have as much trouble. When the fly doesn’t get pulled under it stays drier and can BE dried with less false casts. Of course I’m talking about dry fly fishing here. When I fish wets or streamers I don’t worry about it as much unless I don’t want to fish as deep.
I now have four floating lines whose tips have begun to sink a bit. They cover several line weights. I guard these carefully. I don’t clean them or otherwise mess with them for fear of ruining them. They are absolutely perfect for fishing streamers and nymphs in shallower areas of the lake where my normal sinking lines are too agressive. That little bit of sink at the tip gives me a straighter connection to the fly for better strike detection, a tiny bit more depth, and surer hooksets.
Of course, they are useless for dry flies or poppers, but I have several lines that do float out to the tips.
I know why the lines with welded loops tend to float better. The addition of these loops is fairly new, the last decade or so, and they are primarily used on lines with the latest technology. Like everything else in our sport, line technology has advanced quite a bit over the years. The newer lines float better than the old ones, in general, and will probably float forever is properly cared for. I tend to not like the loops as a connection floating lines. I’ve seen some cracking and hinging at the loop weld on more than one of my lines. I just cut the loops off. I prefer the Castwell Knot since it’s simpler.
Very interesting Buddy. I do exackery the same thing! I cut the loops off and use the Castwell knot as well.
I do NOT like floating lines wherein the tip sinks a bit. I dunno…but 'methinks I can do that with an intermmediate line…?
Denny Rickards whose mainstay line is an intermediate says he developed with Cortland a 7ft very slow sinktip line to fish the upper 2 ft of water when the fish want emergers…I had two thoughts when I first heard that…
Couldn’t we do the same thing by doing just what Buddy has suggested…or…
I think I can do the same thing with a fluoro furled leader and fluoro tippet on a floating line.
Little bit of a side track but relates to the above…