I used masking tape to put a straight edge on a few of my guide wraps and the finish seeped underneath. Is there anyway I can chip some of it off?
A buddy told me you don’t have to make an edge of finish along the last thread wrap. He said it’s only necessary to cover all of the thread. He added that they put an edge on in factories because they figure people will beat the rod pretty hard and the finish will provide an extra measure of protection.
You can use a single edged razor blade and shave off the offending stuff, but for it to look good, you will need to put another coat of finish over that.
I always go out past the threads a touch. To get a nice straight line, hold the brush almost straight up and down and put just enough pressure on the brush that the bristles carry the finish over onto the blank. If you use the masking tape, you need to remove it as soon as you get the finish on. Personally, I would not use the tape.
Is that as clear as mud?
Oh! Don’t do anything to remove it! ADD a little bit of finish right at the edge of the wraps to cover the area that got “seeped”. Make it look intentional! 
I was under the impression that tape had stuck for some reason. If not, then forget the razor blade and do what Betty said! Make it look intentional.
As for the extra edge, I swapped a rod for a couple of reels to get some constructive feedback. After all, folks can only see just so much in a picture. One of the first things he said was that he liked to see more finish on a graphite rod. Bamboo is different. It seems that the current preference on graphite rods is for the “bubble” look to the finish over the wraps. Of course, it is your rod. Do it the way YOU want it!
Most of our wrapping is silk thread on Bamboo rods. We do not use epoxy or high build or low build. Two to three coats of the same spar varnish we use to dip the completed rod in (two coats) are very carefully applied to the wraps only. I use untreated dental floss to make sure I do not get any on the Boo. After the second coat I use a fingernail buffer (special only purchased from a supply house that deals in cosmetic stuff. All the little tags come off perfectly. Last (third) coat is applied to each wrap. Each coat is allowed to dry for at least 24 hours. Goes into the dip tube and the finish is fantastic. Yes, it takes more time and this method might not work on graphite as well. Steady hands under magnification is the secret.
The floss trick may help you is you have a bit too mush. Easier to take off when it is wet than after it has dried.
Denny
I like that idea, Betty. Will it still be acceptable if the seeped area is over approximately 1/8 of an inch wide?
PS. I’m slow replying becuase my home computer went down and my new one is being shipped.
Bruce
I certainly wouldn’t think 1/8 inch would be too wide. One idea, for future builds, while the rod is turning on the dryer, after you have applied the finish, before it sets up, take a piece of NON linting paper towel, fold it in half so you have a rounded, smooth edge, and hold it smartly (grandmothers word for good connection) right at the edge of the wrap … held top and bottom (both hands … use your imagination … it works!) … hold it still and let the turner work. It’ll clean off any left overs and make a nice clean line at the edge of the wrap/finish.
Now, I have to try that. Are you using something like the blue shop towels for that? I’m sure there is something in the painting department at Home Depot, too.
Ok, you guys lost me on the ‘straight edge’ part. I’ve only built a few rods, and always used varnish not epoxy. Unless there is a difference between the two finishes, lets not get into a finish debate.
Don’t you want the finish, no mater what you use, to extend out past the last thread wrap and taper down to the blank? Something in the neighbor hood of 3 +/- thread widths? Is the ‘straight edge’ to mask off a consistent distance all the way around the blank. If that’s the case does it matter if that taper of finish is 3/64ths on one side and 4/64ths on the other? Or am I way off base here?
Bounty … from the local grocery store!!
Bass_Bug,
I think there is a real difference between rod finish/epoxy and varnish. I WILL NOT GO FURTHER THAN THAT!! <it’s too early, and we’ve had enough strife on here recently to start that all over again!!>
I think that masking off an area, is meant to keep the finish out of an area you don’t want it in. Precision at accomplishing that, free hand, comes with practice. To many it’s just not that big a deal. Others like me who are totally AR, have varied ways of dealing with that function. Paper towels being one. A knitting needle is another.
I don’t think you’re off base at all. Just different ways of doing the same thing!!
I use the dental floss just like Betty explained using the paper towel. Is done just after applied, while turning, before drying.
Betty did a far better job of explaining. Thanks Betty.
Great! Now I will get in trouble for using the wife’s Bounty! :lol:
Denny, no arguments about finish. I think the argument will be over plain vs. waxed dental floss, brand, and whatever else we can think of, flavors, maybe? :lol:
Kewl idea, Denny!! Just one more reason to have dental floss always handy!! (It also removes imbedded flies from extremities when you’re fishing!!)
Kevin, I have my very own roll of Bounty on my rod building table. You’d be surprised at how handy it can be! (Keeping in mind, I am TOTALLY graceful in my handling of liquids …)
Ok Betty, keeping the finsih out of an area you dont want, I get that. So on a typical guide (single or doube foot) you have x-amount length of thread wraps. Your finish is typically going to be just a fraction longer extending past each end of the wrap right? So you guys are saying you would mask off that distance before apply finish? If thats the case, won’t that leave an edge to the finish versus a smooth transition down to the blank?
And on a snake guide, are you applying finish completely bewteen the inside edges under the snake? or do you try to mask off that 1/4in or so gap?
Pictures might help show what the original issue is, and what the desired result is.
Hi: I used the masking tape to make a straight edge around the blank. I had trouble becaused it leaked beneath the tape.
Bruce
Bug man,
Just to be clear … I don’t use the tape on mine. I use a knitting needle. I am also totally AR, so everything MUST be precise. SOME people choose to use the tape to make straight margins around the wrap … some stopping at the wrap, sharply, some a “bit” beyond, smoothing out. It’s all in the practice as to how even the edge will be. Some people, myself included, were not perfect the first time out! Go figure!! We’ve all made learning adjustments over time, in application of the finish, and in smoothness, and margins.
We did with what we knew at the time we did, and as we learned more / better, we did too!
Hi Betty! So, I’m going to have to just gain experience applying finish. I do use a knitting needle. Ihave a friend that says he only covers the thread and doesn’t believe you need to make margins on the blank around the wrap.
Knitting needle? Haven’t heard of that one.
Where does he draw the line then? If you dont come down over the edge of the thread, then you are not really ‘covering’ the thread. If you come over just enough to cover the side edge of the thread (thuis covering it), then there is still a margin. Maybe only 1/100 of inch, but still a margine right?
The idea is to seal the thread so as not to get water/dirt/etc under it. If the finish doesn’t extend down to the blank, how can it seal the thread?