I got a Rod kit(8ft5wt) for X-Mas and I would like to know what is the most comman problems that the first time Rod Builders has?
I’ve been on looking for well over a year and like to say Thanks for all the Fly-tying help.
What would we do without FAOL???
Starting.
Probably the most common problem incurred for new builders is proper mixing of rod finish(epoxy). Mixing of epoxy especially flex coat is critical. Equal amounts and proper thinning is most important and worth paying attention to. Application of the proper mix can also be a challange and for the starter remember thinner is better why applying. you can always apply another coat over a thin coat. Not so with a big blob , that wont even out…Good Luck
I guess my best advice would be to relax, take your time, and enjoy yourself on your build. This isn’t rocket science. Here are my top items. Remember, you will probably notice the flaws, and very few others will.
[This message has been edited by ol’ blue (edited 04 January 2006).]
Guide spacing. It’s not that hard really, my problem was pulling to hard on the line when the guides were taped on and checking for proper spacing, I’d pull them off.
Starting the wraps.
Like mentioned before take your time and have fun. Any questions…well as you already know there’s plenty of help here.
To fish or not to fish?
What a stupid question.
EPuffer,
Over time have read a kazillion questions icw the epoxy and problems. Turning milky colored, bubbles, etc. I bought a couple of cheap arrows with cheapo snake guides. I am going to practice on the arrow shaft, which is dark, slick and shiny like a rod blank. I can practice different thread colors also to see the look. Practice with or without color preserver, and the epoxy. After I think I got it down I will put the real guides on my real rod blank.
Gem
[This message has been edited by Plain Old Jim (edited 13 January 2006).]
All excellent points, thats for sure. One of the things that really helps is just what Ol’ Blue mentioned, checking the fit of the components. That applies to your guides as well. Look at the lentgh of the feet of the guides and at how well they taper to a nice keen point at the ends of them. If they do not have a nice pointed taper, use a small file to get to a fine point, it will make the transition of the wrap from the rod to the guide foot a lot easier and nicer. Too, look for any small burrs on the BOTTOMS of the guide feet that could dig into the rod and possibly weaken it at that point. The length of the wraps is important too. Try to keep them consistent with the size of the guides used. The finished product should have wraps that are smaller as you go from one guide size down to another. Last but certainly not least is to be sure that you have a nice sharp razor blade or exacto to trim the tag ends of the wrap after you pull it through to finish the wrap off. If it is too dull, you will get the “fuzzies” that can impair the epoxy finish. I like to singe my wraps with an alcohol lamp to eliminate any of those. Don’t use a bic as that can leave a carbon residue on the wrap.
Check, check and recheck guide alignment as you proceed with wrapping and DON’T WRAP TOO TIGHT!!
Equal lentghs of the rod sections is nice to have too. I always put the tip top on the tip section, then measure and mark the exact fitment of the reel seat to ensure that the butt section and the tip sections are of equal length. When I get ready to install the reel seat, I keep the tip section handy so I can get a nice consistent length of the two sections.
Everyone already hit it on the Epoxy and that is great advice to heed…less is more…too much and you have “footballs”. It takes a little more time to put multiple coats on but it is worth it in the end analysis. Too, if you let the epoxy dry correctly, you can use 2000 grit sandpaper to remove imperfections between coats, but a work of caution…sand lightly, feather touch the imperfections, the next coat will cover the abrasions and will give you a beautiful finish…
Everyone else already hit this…it IS addictive! and you will have a ton o fun both building and fishing a rod that you built.
Best of luck with it, I know you will be proud of your end product and “chompin at the bit” to do your next one.
[This message has been edited by dleo6446 (edited 05 January 2006).]
Another great tip I learned was when aligning guides, turn the blank over so the guides are underneath and look down from the top. It makes it really easy to even them up.
ol’blue’s tip works best if you have a reel on the rod.
This is why I love this site!!!
All this help from PPL that know how to help, with out the B.S. like other sites I know.
Thanks for all the tips it will help me alot, and all others who have not asked yet.
JC/Ladyfisher Thanks for this great site so we can learn from each other.
PUFF
When applying your thread epoxy make sure your rod is level
Resist the temptation and don’t touch the rod wraps to see if the epoxy has cured!
I left some ugly finger prints on my first few rods simply because I was too impatient and touched an otherwise flawless finish before it was set.
I now squirt an extra glob of the rod finish onto a post-it note and set it near the rod turner, if I want to check the cure I touch the glob on the post-it instead of the rod.
Here’s a few things that come to mind.
If you’re reaming out a cork grip to fit the blank, go slow and check it frequently. If you ream out too much, the grip will feel mushy.
When assembling a reel seat, keep your head on straight. It’s easy to do something stupid like forgetting to put on a reel band or something. Also try to visualize where all the epoxy will be flowing to when you put it all together. For example, you don’t want the epoxy flowing into the pocket that accepts the reel foot.
Many beginners are inclined to wind their wraps with too much tension. If you find that it is too hard to reposition a guide after one foot is wrapped, or if your tie-off loops are breaking when you pull them through, then lighten up on your tension.
If you are using color preserver, wait at least 24 hours after the last coat of C.P. before you apply finish.
My preference is to use several coats (usually 4) of a thin build epoxy on the wraps. I don’t care for the one coat types and I especially don’t like the “football” look. After the second or third coat, I will feel all of the guide wraps with my fingers. If there are any little nubs sticking up, you can easily slice them off with a sharp razor blade. Then the final coat will be smooth as glass.
Keep a bottle of isopropyl alcohol around. No matter how careful you are, you are bound to get some epoxy on the blank or reel seat that you didn’t plan on. The alcohol will remove it nicely if you do it right away.
EPuffer;
When I wrap I put one guide on at a time as I usually knock the others off anyway! Old age, fat fingers, who know’s!!
I have a 4 foot shop light over my bench and it will shine on the blank in a nice straight line. I use that to align the guides. Read that in here some where!