I saved some of my comments for this last article. That's partly because
there were things I wanted to say that didn't fit anywhere else, and partly
because many of my observations weren't related to fly-fishing. Ok, I
admit to making plenty of comments about things that had absolutely no
relation to fly fishing in several of my earlier articles, but some of these
just didn't fit the way I wanted them to fit.
First, the barrier reef that runs the entire length of the coast is the second
longest reef in the world. The only reef longer is the Great Barrier Reef
in Australia. It is this reef that provides the aquatic "atmosphere" ideal for
fish and fishing. It's also this atmosphere that gives Belize the reputation
of being the "best place to catch a grand slam". There are other great
places to fish, but Belize has earned the reputation.
I mentioned diving as an activity you might want to pursue. We had an
opportunity to snorkel on the reef while staying at El Pescador. I used my
waterproof Canon camera that day to take a picture of a jack swimming
right under the boat. Alonzo Flota (one of El Pescador's owners) is a
divemaster who knows diving and the reef at least as well as his fishing
guides know bonefish.
If you ever wanted a chance to actually pet a stingray, Alonzo can arrange
that for you. I'm a little too conservative to pet a shark, but Alonzo did that
and more while we explored the treasures of the reef. If you're a diver, I'd
give El Pescador a slight edge over Robert's Grove just because the reef is
much closer to El Pescador and they have a certified diving instructor as one
of their owners. Both places offer first rate diving with fully qualified guides
to assist you.
Hiding in the sea of turquoise is a precious treasure of fish and coral more
valuable than any stone you could put on your finger. The fact that it remains
in its natural state is a testimonial to the people of Belize and their conservation
practices.
A full 40 percent of the mainland and even more of their coastal waters are
protected from commercial harvest as nature preserves where all or at least
certain fish must be released, the trees can't be harvested and the animal life
must be allowed to live in a natural environment. That commitment to their
natural resources hasn't been easy or without sacrifice. The demand for the
exotic wood found in their forests is high and the commercial demand for
the fish available along the reef is higher.
If not for the dedication and commitment to their natural resources, the words
of an old song would be just as true for the shores of Belize at it is for many
of our shores here in the USA. Don't remember the song? Here's the line I'm
referring to: "They paved paradise and put up a parking lot." An infestation of
industrial development would be devastating to the natural resources of Belize.
I don't think I could make a solid choice between El Pescador and Robert's
Grove in terms of fishing possibilities. They both offer excellent fishing. On
one hand, the owners and staff of El Pescador are all fly fishers and the
atmosphere is definitely slanted toward that activity. On the other hand,
the guides at Robert's Grove put in 10 to 12 hour days trying to insure
we had a great time fishing while the guides at El Pescador work eight
hour days and watch the clock.
I saw more bonefish at El Pescador and far more permit at Roberts Grove.
Boat travel to the fishing grounds is 20 minutes each way at El Pescador and
over an hour each way at Robert's Grove. I suppose the extra travel would
balance the fishing clocks a bit. The guides at both places are dedicated and
skilled in all areas of their profession.
The food everywhere was great, but the key lime pie at El Pescador is something
to kill for. There are some serious differences in the dining atmospheres of the
three lodges. El Pescador is family style dining in an atmosphere that encourages
interaction between the guests. Robert's Grove is more formal with a slant
towards restaurant dining. The dining atmosphere at Chaa Creek is formal
in every way except required attire. Three different lodges; three very
different atmospheres.
Belize offers a mix of vacation possibilities that don't end with my narrow
observations. There are other fly fishing lodges that offer quality fishing as
good as what we experienced and maybe accommodations you're more
comfortable with. You might want to do a little more investigating before
you book a trip. I'm positive you wouldn't be disappointed at either of
the fishing lodges I visited; but I'm also old enough to know there are
other opportunities in Belize that might be worth investigating. That said,
the lodges I visited have solid reputations for what they each offer, and
those reputations were earned. I can't vouch for the experience you
might find elsewhere.
I doubt you would find a nicer rainforest lodge than Chaa Creek, but the
possibility does exist. If your vacation plans involve a non-fishing companion,
a day or two at an inland resort might be in order. I know if I took my wife
to Belize, I wouldn't think about missing a tour of some Mayan ruins and at
least one night at a resort in the rainforest. If bird watching is an interest
you or your companion might enjoy, Chaa Creek is a perfect choice.
I was warned before I departed on this journey that my heart would never
be the same. I scoffed that that warning then, but it's true. I mean it when
I call the shores of Belize a paradise. God willing, I hope to return someday
and exact some revenge on the permit and the film gremlin. I hope it wasn't
the only chance I'll ever have to experience a little part of aquatic paradise.
If you want more information about a vacation in Belize, visit their tourism web
site on the internet at www.travelbelize.org
While you're browsing their web site, ask for their travel planning guide
titled "Destination Belize." I just scratched the surface of the information
and possibilities you can find there. By the time you finish reading, you might
agree with their saying: "Belize - Mother Nature's best kept secret."
I'd also like to take this time to thank all those who helped me prepare for this
trip. I'm sure I will omit someone, but it isn't because I didn't appreciate your
help. A special thanks to JC and Ladyfisher for the use of several rods, reels
and lines; also to Todd Vivian at Lamiglas for the use of a sweet rod, reel and
lines. Thanks to Cortland Line Company for the Sea Harbour clothing; to Chota
for the flats boots, to Holton & Assoc. for the ExOfficio shirts dirt-cheap; and
to John Goplin and Scientific Anglers for supplying lines, leaders and tippets for
the whole crew. Thanks to Mike at Yellowstone Fly Goods (a decades old
friend) for the help with fly patterns and some specialty materials. Thanks Dave
(slicfoot) Ulmer and Thomas Duncan Sr. (pastortd) for the flies and wishes.
Thanks BW Sports for the boatsider bag and fanny pack dirt-cheap. Thanks
RFCP and BTB for selecting me for this trip; it was great! And to the many
in the chat room who helped me with pattern ideas, preparation suggestions,
knots and much more; THANKS, it wouldn't have been half as nice without
your help. To everyone who has been reading these articles, thanks; you are
the real reason FAOL had a representative on this trip.
~ Al Campbell
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