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Thread: suggested material sub?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    walnutport, pa
    Posts
    298

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    Alberto: you know i have been meaning to pick up some EP for the last year, and ever time i am at the fly shop it somehow gets forgotten...

    Melk: thanks very much, i was bored one Saturday morning, and asked my brother to pick a color... of all the colors in the spectrum, he chose almond... and that's as close as i could get with the materials on hand, thanks again!

    Whatfly: the large bead and the barrel are both glued fast, i figure if i am going to spend as much time as i do making these things, take precautions where possible... i would be very disheartened if after 2-3 cast a loose chunk of metal decided to cut my wraps... the blade being drug across the tips rotation after rotation basically sands the tips to short stubs... if stiff deer hair was an option it would at least last a week of hard swinging... on another note regarding the glue, its probably not necessary to do what i an about to say, but i think it seems to help, i try and make sure the materials are evenly distributed to help the spinner wobble less, so lots of glue, and waiting... i am not sure what that would be considered.. aqua dynamics(?) perhaps? i have noticed with less turbulence, the blade pulls upright more. allowing for a slower retrieve and brighter flash... the spinner in the pic is the first one made, the recipe is the same, but the final product is cleaner. unfortunately, i am currently out of that size blades so i can't spin one up quick for an example..

    Jay92: i may give the organza ribbon a try, that stuff is pretty tough. i figure if i can get a good month out of one spinner, its an improvement... let alone a whole season... whatfly is correct, there is no magic cure, abrasion is unavoidable at that location of the spinner...

    Ray Kunz: last year, they wouldn't touch a silver blade, only brass... but for some reason nickel is the big thing... i use identical materials, less the blade... another interesting tidbit, they will only hit when i use a metal clevise. i have a few plastic ones that allow you to swap the blades at will, and have absolutely no luck what so ever... i wonder what they are targeting specifically on the spinner...

    here is a pic of that plastic clevise:
    plastic clevise.jpg

    as always, all input is welcome and i appreciate the remarks...

    i am curious to see if replacing the hackle with crystal flash, or flashabou... most likely loose the motion, but gain elasticity and flash... anyone think it may add too much flash?



    again, its great to hear from all of you,
    spooften

    tight lines!
    if every cast caught a fish, it would be called "catching" not "fishing"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    NE Gwinnett Co., GA
    Posts
    5,939

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    I would be inclined to use a large softer feather than dry fly hackle something that would give more motion in the water. Marabou in a split thread or dubbing loop might work or pheasant or turkey body feather. Never tried it so I don't really know if it would work or not.
    Want to hear God laugh? Tell him Your plans!!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northfield, Vermont
    Posts
    741

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    Your bead between the brass body and the clevis should be all you need - shouldn't need that buffer and as whatfly said you're between a moving and non-moving part. Let your bead be your buffer and not the hackle.

    I've been making spinners since the early 80's, and I like yours but the bit of hackle you're using could be skipped and I don't think it would hamper your spinner at all not having it.

  4. #4

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    agree 100% with Fatman... I've been making spinners since the same time and see no need for hackle between the beads/body. They ARE nice looking and different, but if it's problematic, don't do it.
    To the simpleton, proof does not matter once emotion takes hold of an issue.

  5. #5

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    That spinner looks gooood!
    The Green Hornet strikes again!!!

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