Great explanation, thanks, I see now how the sinking is gauged. I don't understand one other thing then. If i wanted to get deeper and use 12' of any of the sinking lines, can I use a leader and tippet length of say 9'? Then when i'm casting the t-8 would be in the eyes and need to be casted out. How would the sinking line be secured to the floating line so it would move smoothly thru the guides when being casted? If a small section of heavy clear hard mono were nail knotted to both the floating line and sinking line, wouldn't you have a casting problem? This also creates a problem for me as the line is fixed and would be designated sinking tip. Possibly a loop on the leader end would make that changable but a loop to loop on the floating line end to the t-8 would create casting problems.

Right now my favorite line set-up is the 2' of t-8 and a 5' leader tippet I make with a tandem fly setup. A small fly up front and something line a beadhead wooley on the end. I seem to get a more horizontal retrieve with the t-8 sinking along with the wooley. Your absolutley correct on the depth I fish at over weeds. At this short length my floating line is the only thing going threw the guides. I'm happy with this set-up cause i can change to a popper or other surface fly quickly.

I am just curious about the first part and how I would setup a longer t-8 section (say 12') /how it affects casting/ and leader choice. I have some Kelly Gallop flies that would work well 5 to 6 foot down when they're hitting at that depth. Basically at this point, I've never fished my t-8 unless it was completely out of the guides at the start of the cast...I've done 6' t-8 with a 3' tippet out of my canoe and it worked ok short castink.

By the way, thanks for the detailed explanation, it helped clear up alot of issues. Al