Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Fly Tying desk design

Threaded View

  1. #7

    Default

    Northwoods,

    You know how to build stuff already.

    Some 'basics' to keep in mind:

    There is no such thing as 'too much' when it comes to either storage or tying space. You have six foot wide, two feet deep, and eight feet high. Use it all.

    For a tying area, shelves whould get farther apart as you go 'up'. This is backwards from most uses. Allows you to put larger boxes/bulk stored stuff up high, and lets you organize the smaller stuff you need at hand easier. The upper storage can and should stick out from the wall farther than the lower shelves. You need wider/deeper shelving up there for the larger stuff....kitchen wall type cabinets tight to the ceiling are ideal...and the doors keep things looking neat.

    At six foot in width, you have space for more than one primary 'work area'. Set up your vise on the left end (given you are a right handed tyer). This will allow you a space to your right where you can do other things without the vise in the way...sort materials, set up an epoxy drying wheel, measure and cut stuff..etc. If you put the primary work space in the center, you'll waste a lot of valuable space...

    If you like having a TV or video capability while you tie, build it in at just above head height while you are seated. This lets you glance UPWARDS to see the screen (which, as you get older and need lenses to see to tie with, makes looking over the frames so you can see the screen easier). Either side of your seated position is up to you..don't put it straight in front of you....See a lot of guys tying with a computer next to them...if you intend to do that, leave a spce for it that's convenient for you...

    Electricity...lots of stuff needs power now a days. Having plenty at your tying station is nice...if you can run a separate circuit to it with a strip of multiple oputlets it will work well..just remember that electrical needs vary by device...some will get plugged in and stay that way...outlets for them can be towards the back and behind storage areas...some stuff will need power only occasionally so at least a couple of plugs should be easily accessible while you are seated at your tying station.

    Anything that's on the primary tying surface should be movable. That 6' long by two feet wide space is precious...don't lock in stuff to only one option on the desk surface....Needs change, you will find that certain tools and stuff that you use today might not be as needed in a few years...don't drill lots of holes, screw things to the table top, or build in lots of rails, racks, and such. You may want all of these things, just make them so that they can be moved around.

    The tying/desk surface should be easily washable and a neutral color. Formica, something like that, in a light shade that's not stark white.

    Lighting. I've never heard anyone at a fly tying bench complain that they had too much light. Lots of ways to do this, but if your tying area is going to be in permanent location, dedicated lighting is a good option. A six foot length of 'track' style lighting mounted above the bench gives you unlimited options...you can place the light 'cans' where you want them, move them as required, and you can aim them individually...for a six foot desk, four 'cans' with a couple of daylight bulbs and two 150 watt halogen floods will give you full color and plenty of light. If it's too bright, just unscrew a bulb or two....it's still there if you need it.

    If you want to cover the clutter normally asociated with a tying desk, you can buy the stuff they use for roll top desks at most woodworkers shops...if you can use a router, it's easy to install....but you need to 'build' for it so there is room for the stuff to move.

    Long shallow drawers below the desk surface are great for hackles and other lengthy materials. Make sure you leave room for your feet when building in the drawers...and, make the drawers larger/deeper as you go down...in a six foot space, you can get three 'strips' of drawers..a narrow one on either end and a bit wider one in the middle..more narrow drawers are more useful than a few wide ones..gives you more organizational options.....Build in a drawer directly under where your vise head will be that you can pull all the way out easily...use this to catch debris...when it gets full, pull it out and dump it....easier and neater than one of those bag thingys.

    Have fun with your project!

    Buddy
    Last edited by Buddy Sanders; 02-26-2009 at 04:04 PM.
    It Just Doesn't Matter....

Similar Threads

  1. Fly design name?
    By Steven in forum Fly Tying
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 07-18-2013, 08:45 PM
  2. crab bomb design settled...
    By bonefishwhisperer in forum Saltwater Fly Fishing
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 05-19-2011, 09:43 PM
  3. New Rite Bobbin design
    By kglissmeyer in forum Fly Tying
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 01-28-2011, 11:05 PM
  4. design the tail
    By Normand in forum Fly Tying
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 03-03-2010, 11:49 PM
  5. tryin to invent a new fly design
    By DDRRedneck500 in forum Fly Tying
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 12-03-2007, 04:42 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts