MOAL

[PETI]

Ducksterman,
Not sure of the date, notes back home, but I do think it was prior to March probably the Nov. session. I used the fly quite a bit last year.
I can see where a loop to connect the rear hook would cut down on bulk and simplify, if I'm visualizing correctly.Loop thru the eye then under and behind the point/bend and up over the shank?
How does he start the first rabbit strip now? The method described is really quite simple and effective once practiced and durable, but if he's changed it ther must be a reason. Would like to try it.
Correct on the hook protruding, guess the "near to" wasn't clear enough.
The SG does make the line stiffer, but once set and worked it becomes very supple again and the rabbit still holds on very well.
I havn't had a one come apart yet, even after several fish.

Peter

[Benjo]

I tie them with 20 pound braided dacron and I have never used superglue, it is unnesessary. I use an octopus hook in the back and whatever in the front. As you wrap the cross cut rabbit up the taught backing that connects the hooks you can bind it down with some thread wraps. Before doing this you should wrap your thread all the way up the backing and then back down. The hardest thing is if you decide to leave the front hook on there, the hardest thing is to have the hooks both end up on the same side of the body: both facing down or up.

You should not change colors of rabbit fur on the backing, use the same cross cut strip to span that. Then switch immediately to the color for the front. Once in a great while, the rabbit wrapped on the backing will begin to untwist. That is what the extra thread wraps to bind it down are for.

Is it worth the trouble? I don't know. It really is a pain to tie. I try to keep a difficult fly under 10 minutes and an average fly under 6 and this one takes me about 20. It does look amazing in the water undulating uninhibited by hook shank.

No promises but when the fishing season winds down I'll try and do a fly of the week featuring this pattern.

[This message has been edited by Benjo (edited 09 September 2005).]

[Benjo]

One more thing: The steelhead junkies that taught me this pattern were in the habit of tying it with only one vice! They simply took the back hook out of the vice and put the front one in while pinching the materials. It is easier with 2 vices but can be done with one.

[ducksterman]

I haven't tied this fly enough to get proficient with it so have to agree it is somewhat of a pain...did buy from Hook and Hackle his cheap vise $6 or was it $9...thought maybe I could figure a way to hold it other than a second vise but for that price why fight it...

Peter, your method is the current one for attaching the strip..e.i. splitting one strand...now he does this to keep the rabbit from..."sliding"...but he still puts the second strip between the two strands.
You are correct on how you visualize the loop.

Incidentally he was using 50# Power Pro [in the article and at the session] I think I remember him saying the spectra type products are braided therefore work the best for that bodkin splitting technique.

Benjo, let us know if it's worth the effort.

[PETI]

Probably the best reason for the loop attachment of the rear hook:
The hook of your choice can be attached to the loop by simply slipping the loop through the eye of the hook and over the shank then snugging the loop back up to the eye. I really like to use an "Matsuo Up Eye" or "Gamakatsu Octopus

can someone post a picture of it???

[PETI]

Here's the best I could come up with.

[url=http://www.riverwire.com/cgi-bin/item/moal:ab316]http://www.riverwire.com/cgi-bin/item/moal[/url:ab316]

I'll bring one in Monday and see how it scans.

Peter