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Thread: Wrap burnishing

  1. #11

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    I do the same as mojoman when preparing and mixing (heating both parts of the epoxy). I mix the Flexcoat in a small plastic cup being careful not to introduce a bunch of bubbles in the process (keep cup flat and mix slowly to avoid folding epoxy over itself and trapping bubbles.

    Once it's mixed I take a small plate (covered in alumnium foil) and pour the epoxy onto the plate and let it set for a minute or 2. This helps any bubbles in the epoxy escape easier. If there are still bubbles I use a hair dryer or breath on the epoxy to help the bubbles escape.

    When applying the epoxy I make sure to not touch the thread with the Spatulas. I allow the epoxy to flow off the spatula and on to the wrap. Just the surface tension of the epoxy will allow you to move the epoxy bead over the wrap without touching the wrap itself (most bubbles are introduced into the epoxy as air is brushed into the epoxy during contact of the brush or spatula).

    The only time the spatula touches the wrap is on the ends where I push the epoxy bead over the edge then slowly build the epoxy up at the edge of the wrap.

    I wish I was articulate enough to accurately describe the process. I hope I was able to do that.

    [This message has been edited by Northern Extreme (edited 08 January 2006).]

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Mesa, AZ USA
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    519

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    Northern Extreme

    Made sense to me - I've never used a spatula for this purpose before but it makes sense. Usually I apply the finish with a method very similar to what you describe. Not touching the wraps ? only spreading the mixture. I just found some tools at Michaels Crafting store that look like they should do the trick.

    I used to get nothing but bubbles if I just looked at the mix but since I started the "Pre-Finish" idea I usually only get the bubbles during the stirring process or from the hairs in the brush. This should eliminate the problem with the brushes and the tools can be easily cleaned with denatured alcohol or acetone.

    I once over-heated a mixture causing my finish to crack the day after it dried. Now I am little cautious with applying heat. I would think maybe my measurement had been off on that mix but this occurred on three rods. On all three rods I applied the heat with one of those heat-torches. I believe I just got too close for too long a period of time. Mixing the mix in a container that is inside hot water still provided bubbles ? made no difference. When Flex Coat first came out I just couldn?t use it. I had experts watch my work and they couldn?t believe how many bubbles appeared. I would do exactly as they do and get triple the bubbles. My pre-finish has been the only thing to work for me. It locks in the impurities and allows me to work. Other Rod-Builders find other ideas that work for them ? That is always the way to go.

    I have a 6'6 2wt in the Brown Truck due for arrival on Friday. I'm anxious to give this new application method a try. I appreciate your information ? that is what makes this board what it is.




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  3. #13

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    I wonder if the bubbles prior to the pre-mix were due to the first coat not wicking into the tunnel left between the guide feet and the thread? If there is any air left trapped it would try to come out during the final coat. I suspect the thinner mixture may be allowing the first coat to wick into the tunnel better.

    Good luck on the 2wt. Let us know how it works for you.

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