Is there a reason not to tie all our bead head nymphs on jig hooks? Anything I could do to keep those puppies from snagging would help.
Is there a reason not to tie all our bead head nymphs on jig hooks? Anything I could do to keep those puppies from snagging would help.
IMHO, jig hooks are purposely designed to have bead heads, hence the bend at the eye end of the hook. I also wrap weight at the head shank to make it still heavier. I often wonder if my jig flies should be tied so that the wings are on the inverted side. My 2 cents
Isn’t that an oximoron?
“Fly” and “jig”?
David Merical
St. Louis, MO
Just because a fly is tied on a jig hook doesn't mean it's not going to get snagged. I've fished for years using jigs with spinning tackle, and if you're bouncing them along a rocky bottom they will get snagged. Even more likely when fly fishing because you don't have the same line control or the ability to feel the jig/bead head hitting the bottom. Below a strike indicator/bobber as long as it's hanging vertical and not touching bottom the chances of it snagging might be less. Most of the fly fishing jig hooks, seem to be 60 degree which is a better choice than 90 degree, though I'm surprised nobody's come out with a 45 degree hook which might be even better suited for tying bead head nymph.
fritz, nope they weren't designed for bead heads. They were designed for a certain style of presentation, initially vertical. Over the years on the dark side of fishing they've evolved into many forms and fishing styles. Not sure what you mean by the inverted side. If you're tying a nymph on a standard hook, the wings will be on the top of the hook. Think in terms of dumb bell or bead chain eyes. They're tied on the top of the hook so the fly rides point up. The orientation changes and the hook point side becomes the "top" If you were tying a Clouser or a Crazy Charlie where would you put the wing? Adding weight to it isn't a bad idea, but I would add a piece of lead wire to the bottom of the hook just behind the bead head which should be against the hook eye.
Always curious about the assertion that jig hooks hang up less. Might in some situations but overall pretty much averages out the same for me. And this idea that they always drift hook point up is also dependent on the situation as Philly discusses. Jig hooks come in limited styles and sizes which is another limitation in my mind. They are also often more expensive than standard hooks in many cases, and in the case of 90 degree hooks require slotted beads, again adding to cost. I also dislike how some of the jig hooks are lighter wire than I would expect for nymph hooks, which has led to problems.
I will continue to have a mix of both. Jig hooks have their uses but are hardly a panacea for snags. Up to the OP to make up his own mind.
The light wire ones are designed so the hook will straighten and it will come loose from a snag. You just bend the hook point back into shape. You can do that a couple of times before you need a new jig. Works well if the hook point is snagged, not so much if the jig head is snagged. Eagle Claw makes an inexpensive jig, though I think it's a 90 degree hook. Being a light wire hook you can change the angle to at least 60 degrees. Smallest they make is, I think, a size 12. It's also gold color. I often use their light wire Aberdeen style hooks(bronze or gold color) for woolly buggers and fresh water clousers because if the fly is snagged by the hook point, it can often be pulled loose and the bend put back into the right configuration.
I have a photo of a copper john tied on a 1/124 jig that had hit so many rocks and limb the front is mashed flat but it did not hang up. The use of slotted beads should be even better because of the sloped front of that arrangement.
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Guess I'll just have to try them and see.
Daughter to Father, "How many arms do you have, how many fly rods do you need?"
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