I have a pair of Dr. Slick serrated blade hair scissors that seem to be losing their bite. Is it worth the time/effort to get them re-sharpened?
Regards,
Scott
I have a pair of Dr. Slick serrated blade hair scissors that seem to be losing their bite. Is it worth the time/effort to get them re-sharpened?
Regards,
Scott
Only one blade is serrated; sharpen the plain edge blade if you wish, not the serrated blade.
IMO, for $15, I consider them disposables.
Busy,
I seem to recall mine were about $30 for the Dr. Slick serrated ones.
Even so, if home sharpening of the non-serrated side didn't work, I would replace them.
There is a tiny screw head on mine. Perhaps tightening might help?
1000 grit wet dry sand paper , glass shelf or a piece of flat steel , mark the edge to be sharpened with a magic marker ,lay paper on glass or steel grit side up, place the edge on paper inside facing you push away from you only . Making sure you are removing maker as you push evenly creating a burr on inside edge . When burr has been achieve evenly . Push the blades apart with fingers after closing open with blades rubbing together forcing the burr out .then cut light paper removing the burr .or rub the edge against tight jean leg or leather strop to remove the burr and polish.
Bill,
Thanks for a great how-to on scissors sharpening, I may give it a try. If it doesn't bring them back to their former glory, they'll still be useful for other tasks around the bench. I've definitely gotten my money's worth out of the pair and won't hesitate to contact the good Doctor again.
Regards,
Scott
contact a scissor sharpening service and they can do that for low cost. or call the local beauty schools and find out where ther sharping person comes in.
I know it's not cheap but if you want something that sharpens everything at the perfect angle get a Work Sharp sharpener. I sharpen my hunting & fishing knives, kitchen knives, scissors, & tools. Worth it's weight in gold.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Work-...h-All+Products
As Bugsy and Byron have said, consider them a consumable. Dr Slick are not the cheapest scissors available, but considering they have come from manufacturer, to wholesaler, to retailer, to you, and half way around the world in the process they can't be much above them. A really top pair of hairdressing scissors can cost 2000 UK pounds+ and are worth sharpening. My mother was a seamstress, she rarely bought new scissors, when she did they cost over a weeks wages. 4 Pairs lasted her entire working life. Good scissors always have cost a lot.
At the other end of the scissor market, where most fly tying scissors fit, the steal will, at best, be case hardened. This will give a hardened surface to a depth of less than 1/1000". How much material is going to be removed in sharpening them? Probably all the hardened surface and more. Leaving you trying to cut with soft metal. They may be better when sharpened, but will not last.
Tying commercially I find that I am best getting the cheapest scissors I can and changing them quite often. The ones I prefer (Bexfield Embroidery with plastic handles) I can get wholesale for just over a pound each. They last me, at best, a year, at worst, six months. A quick inventory shows me I have around 18 pairs in stock. However they are not serrated. (Well they are not when I get them. Watch this space ).
Sorry to be the barer of bad news but you now have a pair of utility scissors, for tying the best thing is to buy new ones.
Cheers,
A.
As a scissor sharpener for 25 yrs. daily , you will not get them as sharp as new but will improve them . I use Anvil brand the work and last the best made from German steel (good quality) Slicks are made in Pakistan (very low quality) . The very best are from japan manufacture but expect to pay considerable more. Never cut wire with your scissors .
While I understand the pleasure owning quality tools, I also understand the 'disposable' aspect of many items we use in fly tying.
For me, scissors are solidly in the 'disposable' category.
I use them. I refuse to baby my scissors. I'm not going to change tools just to cut a bit of lead or copper wire, I just us the area of the blade closest to the pivot point to do so. I find that my scissors, which cost around $15 (Fiskers cushion grip microtips) last me a year or two. Fiskars sells a sharpening tool, and that keeps the edges keen enough to cut any material I need to right out to the tips. Once I get to the point where they won't stay sharp, I replace them (probably ground through the case hardening as AlanB suggested). I keep the old ones around for other uses.
Getting an expensive pair of high end scissors professionally sharpened is a necessary expense, but added to the high cost of the tool itself, plus the downtime while it's being serviced, I can't justify it when I can buy 10 to 20 pairs of the 'disposable' ones. I get it for professional hair dressers, and folks who make living with such tools. Can't see where it would be financially justified for even a professional fly tyer, though.
Sorry for the hijack.
Buddy
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