I prefer the Red Tin Mucelin, as it doesn't contain silcone. I have used it, Gerhke's Gink, and the line treatment that comes with a Thibault silk fly line.
What I have found is once the leader starts to sink, drying it and applying RTM doesn't help much, Gink will float it awhile longer. The Thibault stuff doesn't work as well. They are so easy to inexpensive to make that I will just swap a sinking one out for a dry one, let the wet one dry and re-use later.
Pete
Fly Goddess,
Still no luck finding the post on using varnish, but, have not given up on it yet. I will warn you about getting Kathy's DVD. Her DVD is very well put together and you will be making furled leaders out of everything you can get your hands on!I know I studied furled leaders on the Web and would just get more confused on how to make them an then I just ordered Kathy's DVD and within 45 minutes after watching it, I was making them! You will not be sorry you ordered it. The hardest thing to do is stop making them!
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Warren
Warren
Fly fishing and fly tying are two things that I do, and when I am doing them, they are the only 2 things I think about. They clear my mind.
Help me out here, everyone. I tried furled leaders by Orvis about 10-`15 years ago and didn't like how they sprayed the water surface with the first false cast or so. I liked how the cast, but not the spraying. Was I supposed to have treated them with something to prevent that? Thanks in advance for any input.
Bob
[This message has been edited by BSwan (edited 08 March 2006).]
[This message has been edited by BSwan (edited 08 March 2006).]
Bob,
Were you trying out Orvis furled leaders or Orvis braided leaders? Braided leaders will throw a fine spray.
Some excellent fly fishermen like those braided leaders, though.
I searched all over the net for this Mucelin stuff but cant come up with any solid results. I'll be making a bunch of these leaders soon and I need some thing to treat them with. But where are you guys getting this stuff?
BSwan
Help me out here, everyone. I tried furled leaders by Orvis about 10-`15 years ago and didn't like how they sprayed the water surface with the first false cast or so. I liked how the cast, but not the spraying. Was I supposed to have treated them with something to prevent that? Thanks in advance for any input.
Bob
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Bob, if I remember right the Orvis was or is a braided leader, which I don't think is the same as a furled. I still have a couple and I am going to try them, but I don't think that they are the same. Istill have a few bimini twists too, that I am trying to figure out if they well work with a furled.
Tim I know Sportsmen's Warehouse carries it, that is where I got mine. But, again I got the green (silicon) because of other forums, this one like the red.
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she who dies with the most toy's wins.
[This message has been edited by Fly Goddess (edited 08 March 2006).]
BSwan, I found this for you:How is a furled leader different from a braided leader?
Our furled tapered leader is not a "braided" leader. Conventional braided leaders have a hollow center that tends to pick up and hold water which in turn makes the leader heavier and effects casting performance. When cast, a braided leader also has a tendency to 'splat' the surface of the water and spray the small droplets contained in its core. Many say that these negative characteristics put down or "spook" fish. BlueSky furled leaders have a sold core and do not have these negative characteristics. Additionally, most braided leaders are too limp to fully turn over the tippet and fly.
Orvis is braided, not furled.
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she who dies with the most toy's wins.
You guys are quick AND smart. They were braided leaders, not furled. My mistake. I also hadn't realized there was a difference, thus my wondering why everyone was so enthusiastic. Thanks.
Bob
Attn: Tim S
My latest Cablea's 'Flyfishing' catalog has Mucelin in both the green and red tins. Ity is listed with the fly floatants. I think any quality paste floatant would work however...
It was I who (whom?) posted the remarks about dipping my furled leaders into a can of Spar Varnish, then hanging them to drip the excess off. I then go down the furled leader with a cloth lightly dampened with some "Spar Varnish".
I do this for the following reasons.
1. The varnish fills in the voids, that are inside the furled leader. Less spraying of water while casting.
2. Seals the threads, to prevent them becoming waterlogged.
3. Gives the line, some backbone for casting into the wind.
4. I had a left over can of Spar Varnished, and figure I would try some furled leaders in the stuff. The original Silk Fly Lines were varnished. I use mostly polyester thread that sucks up water like a sponge. Reason I use polyester over nylon, is that polyester does not stretch, while nylon does, and there is enough stretching in the furled leader just by its construction.
5. Just because I can do it!
~Parnelli
PS: You really should look at slicfoots tapered leader formula "Big Leader Formula" in JC's archives, I changed it over to a furled leader formula that is "DYNOMITE!"
An just for the record, I am a "Dipper Dan" man, I use "Dipper Dan" or I don't use anything at all!
[This message has been edited by Steven H. McGarthwaite (edited 08 March 2006).]
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