watch out for cheap cork

[Greg F]

Sunday I finally broke the grip on my nine weight that I built with cheap cork rings. I bought a bag of 50 rings for like $30 a few years ago. I should have culled out the crummier ones. I am casting a 350 grain sinking head for stripers with this rod, and the grip disintegrated where the thumb and index finger go. I could feel it collapsing the last couple times fishing. This morning I glued up some composite rings and good cork for the replacement, like this one on a six weight:

[kbproctor]

I like that!

How the heck do you go about replacing the grip? Do you strip guides from the front or take the reel seat off? Or do you split the grip, pop it over the blank and glue it back together?

[Betty Hiner]

I strip all the guides and wraps on the blank side; cut off the old cork (exacto knife) and replace the cork, from the blank end. Then you get to redo all the guides and wraps ... and finishing!!

[kbproctor]

I was afraid of that.

[Sully]

Ive replaced them from the reelseat side. Im not about to remove snakes, the tip, the hook keeper...etc..etc.

[Betty Hiner]

Sully,
Can you get a tight enough taper to fit from the reel seat end? I think it would be easier to replace the guides than to try to get the epoxy to release from the reel seat!!! Et ergo ... why I replace from the blank end.

[Bass_Bug]

Kind of what I was thinking Betty. Besides having to remove the reel seat (a major task if it's on there solid) It seems reaming out the new cork to slide up from the butt end would make for a sloppy fit. But then again one could always shim it with masking tape! Although that really sounds like a shabby way to do it.

Now, unless it's a one piece rod, there's no ned to remove the tip and there should only be 1 or 2 guides to remove. Any thing over 8', chances are the first 2 guides are strippers. A 3 piece, only one guide on the first section at best. A 4 or 5 piece there wont be any guide on the butt section.

[Sully]

Sully,
Can you get a tight enough taper to fit from the reel seat end? I think it would be easier to replace the guides than to try to get the epoxy to release from the reel seat!!! Et ergo ... why I replace from the blank end.

Some reelseats you just sacrifice...but many ( most??) you can get to release if you apply some heat...CAREFULLY...and wear welders gloves to GENTLY twist it ever so slightly. Once you get it moving then ya have it whipped!

Those plastic . graphite reelseats...I just cut tem off with a dremel and a large screwdriver....too cheap to mess with

[Sully]

Kind of what I was thinking Betty. Besides having to remove the reel seat (a major task if it's on there solid) It seems reaming out the new cork to slide up from the butt end would make for a sloppy fit. But then again one could always shim it with masking tape! Although that really sounds like a shabby way to do it.

Now, unless it's a one piece rod, there's no need to remove the tip and there should only be 1 or 2 guides to remove. Any thing over 8', chances are the first 2 guides are strippers. A 3 piece, only one guide on the first section at best. A 4 or 5 piece there wont be any guide on the butt section.

As you get further and further towards the butt end..the taper drops drastically and once you "destroy" the cork off and clean it all up you can use a vernier on the butt to check it. You have to ream for the largest ( butt end) diameter and then figure out the arbor size ( put that masking tape back...lol) for the forward end. Using LOTS of arbors or some long ones at least...you trial fit the new reamed out grip on the rod and if it feels "right"...slather on the U40 and have at it. If you're slick at it...you shim the front of the blank to match the rear OD...that way you have a straight hole thru the cork. Take a srap piece of butt section if ya habe one handy...and do a tight wrap about 1 inch long ( thats enough) with masons cord. Soak it with wrap fnish and let it dry. When dry apply another tight wrapped layer of the same cord...soak again with finish...and then look and see how thick it is. Of course on an actual rod you would want to brush on a very liquid epoxy using say one of those throw away rod finish brushes

Depending on the blank size and the rod "weight" ( line weight) some snakes and tip wont fit thru a smaller hole. A blank such as a Lamiglass fly blank always has been LARGE and with oversized snaked and tip loop...they wont squeeze thru a manhole I dont think. I have a 4 wgt Sage here though with "0" sized snakes and standard tip...that I think can fit thru a 10 penny nail hole ( did I say they were small??)

Just depends on the situation.

EDIT: BTW...what if you had applied hours and hours on a fancy butt wrap on this hypothetical rod....gonna strip it all off and pitch HOURS of work?

[Walnutshoe]

Another way is just remove the old grip and clean the blank. Measure the blank at back, mid, and fore. Ream new grip based on those measurements. Carefully split the new grip length wise with a fresh razor. Soak the grip in not quite boiling water. Apply glue to the blank, slip the now pliable grip over the blank. Apply glue the length of the slit. Use shrink tubing or tape over Saran Wrap as a clamp. Touch up with sandpaper when dry and good to go. Other than removing old and cleaning blank, takes longer to type out than do. Single rings or sections of grip can be done same way.