Zap-A-Gap

[Tig]

I use stuff called Zap. It is not called Zap-a-gap. I don't know if it is different than what you are all talking about. It comes out of a black tube as a gel and is the best stuff I have ever used. It stays right where you put it instead of soaking throughout the fly and making it hard. It also dries quickly. I have had to run a fine sowing needle down the applicator once or twice but not a big deal. Highly recommend it.

[Eight Thumbs]

I like the stuff and use it regularly for making Crease Flies, holding lead eyes in place on Clouser Minnows and fixing the stuff I routinely break around the house. I recently had my third or fourth bottle turn rock hard but in fairness to the manufacturer, only after 18 months of use. I get the stuff on my fingers all the time when pinching Crease Flies together but I have always been able to pull the old thumbs open with a little effort. I don't leave my cap off any longer than necessary but I still end up with a Zap-A-Gap brick with the last half ounce in the bottle. One word of warning about Zap-A-Gap, don't mix it with Sharpie Markers, even when the color is dry. You will get a chemical reaction that leaves a ruby red color anywhere the wet Zap-A-Gap has come in contact with the colored area. I found this out when gluing eyes to several dozen Crease Flies I had colored with Sharpies. The fish didn't care about the strange red ring around the eyes but I did. 8T

[roberts618]

All,

Thanks for you comments. After reading them, I decided to go in a different direction and returned the Zap-A-Gap.

I found G-S Hypo Cement at Joanns ETC. It specially mentions fly fishing lures on its packaging. It come with almost a hypodermic point to apply the glue and it is not as dangerous as Z-A-G, IMHO. It does take a little longer to dry though but that is not an issue for me.

Has anyone tried this glue? Results?

[Fly Goddess]

I too have been using it for years. Also had it on my fingers...it peels of with out my skin over time.
I have problems with it drying up and clogging the hole. Also when gluing plastic or even rattan to cork, it takes forever to dry.
Some things it dries real quick, other things....well pull up a chair.
I use it because it is one of the only water proof super glues. I also like the liquid as I coat my thread before wrapping.


Speaking of Chemical reaction...DEER HAIR....SMOKE....HAIR ROCK

[jjtroutbum]

Printing out warnings and such for superglue? Guess I am just a risk taker.

[DarrinG]

I have problems with it drying up and clogging the hole.

Me too. I really like how Zap bonds foam flies and such but I wrestle with it every time I use it to get the bottle neck unstopped....not to mention how bad the attachable skinny neck gets clogged up.

After reading some of the posts here, I think I'm gonna pick up some of the Loctite brush-on stuff and give it a try.

[DaveP63]

Folks, FYI. They make an accellerator for ZAP that speeds the drying time considerably...Like almost instantly. Used it for years on models...

[jdubach]

That's why Buddy doesn't have a problem when leaving the cap off. CA'S react with moisture to set. Even the humity in the air will set it. The dry Arizona air is the solution. I live in Missouri and the high humity here would cause an unopened bottle to set in no time.

Dave

My Zap is doing just fine as well. And I don't have problems with the cap sticking permanently.