5 minute epoxy glue?

[Matt Penttila]

I use the Loctite 5 minute Epoxy that comes with the mixing tubes, makes life easy as you just put on a tube and squeeze the double syringe, and the end product is an almost perfect 50/50 mixture. Do use rubber gloves and tape off everything you don't want to epoxy, as it does tend to run a bit until it starts to set up. As for the waterproof factor, once it's hardened you will not have to worry about it. Only drawback is it requires lots of heat to remove if you do have to move it so do several test fits before actually epoxying the components in. One trick I do on fiberglass blanks is to make a line on the spine from tip to end of the blank with a china marker, then make my tape arbors and copy the line onto the tape and onto the reel seat with the china marker. Then when I put the reel seat on with the epoxy, I line everything up and when it dries, everything is lined up and then I can wipe the china marker marks off the reel seat and proceed from there.

Good Luck

Matt

[Betty Hiner]

chris from canada ... just a heads up, while I 'm thinking about it. WHEN-EVER or WHERE-EVER you use gorilla glue, be very careful. DO NOT SAND it unless you are wearing protective breathing apparatus. The particles are horrendously dangerous to breath. It's a good product for a lot of things (rod building is not one I'd use it for though), but follow the directions very carefully.

[J Castwell]

This is news to me. It looks like using the old glue stick that you heat up for the tip-top is out these days. Why have you guys all gone to one that can not be replaced? With the 'old' glue, when the tip-top gets bent or busted, just heat it up, even a lighter will do it. Often enough glue is left on the shaft and you can just push on the new replacement.

[Photojoe4]

Flexcoat 5min epoxy works great. Just make sure you test fit the reelseat/grip before you try to glue them on.

Regards,
Joe Martin

[harleybob87]

JC those days are long gone. The stick glue that we used to use does not hold as well as say rod bond. I can remember that was the glue of choice (hot melt) years ago, but I don't know of to many that use it. I want everything to stay in place once glued but I want the time to make adjustments if needed. Rod bond is inexpensive, easy to mix, and even easier to use. cleanup is simple and the hold is fabulous. I don't care for 5 min epoxy due to the work time. The things I like about rod bond is it is designed for the building of rods and I have used u40 materials for several years and they stand behind their product. Rod bond is easy to mix, easy to use, and has a long enough work time to make adjustments, no need to rush. Once it bonds it is there for a very long time. The glue stick method JC mentioned is a good method, but I have had problems with tips coming off with it. Something I did not the glue. Rod bond is preaty much fail proof if even mixed close to 50/50. Rod bond if you even get just the smallest amount on a product will hold like no other. At $10 or less it is well worth the money. Just my 2 cents worth here.

[fishbum]

JC

I still use the thermo-setting adhesive for tip tops. But then I still make and fish with bamboo too. Oh, I still tie and fish bucktail streamers. I hope my age is not showing.

fishbum

[J Castwell]

So, my real question goes unanswered. When a tip-top gets damaged (and they do); wear out, get bent, get busted, corrode. How is it replaced since it will not come off?

[harleybob87]

Ok JC sorry I missed it, the question that is. I could not answer that question due to not met that situation yet. My thoughts are this. If you have done something to damage the tip ie smash it crush it etc you have comprimised the tip section of the blank and it should be replaced. With the quality of todays products wearing one out is well it would take a lot of time. Most of the guides I use are titanium powdercoated black or some other color and slick as all get out. It would be hard to wear one out. Just my thoughts and nothing more.

[fishbum]

On graphite with a lifetime warranty you slam the darned thing in the tailgate of the truck and then send it back to the manufacture.

Heat will breakdown the epoxy so you can remove the offending tip top. However, there is a fine line between enough heat to break down the epoxy holding the tip top on and enough heat to break down the epoxy holding the graphite or glass fibers together in the tip of the rod.

fishbum

[ducksterman]

JC...I don't know about fly rod tips ...but I suspect the answer is to heat it. I'd use my heat gun [some say a hairdryer will work...don't know never tried one] We break the epoxy bond between golf club heads and graphite shafts all the time...without a problem ...and there many of us use a propane torch.