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Thread: Stinger hook

  1. #1

    Default Stinger hook

    Anyone have a particular favorite stinger hook? Why?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    Posts
    506

    Default

    Gamakatsu B10S...see my reports!

    Choose it orginally because of the smoke finish, razor sharp hook and EXTREMELY small barb to snap off....also they were 2 bucks or so less in cost them Mustads version which was shinie, heavier and had a HUGE barb. (and I tie bunch w/ 'stads)

    Really feel I got a way better value for less money, DOES NOT happen everyday.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina (Northwest corner of SC) USA
    Posts
    2,523

    Red face Call me a traditionalist .......

    Hey Duckster,

    I tie just about all my flies with plain old Mustad hooks and don't see any major reason to change when it comes to stinger hooks. I use Mustad 37187's exclusively. I'm sure others will disagree. 8T

  4. #4

    Default

    I also tie alot on the B10S Stinger hook. Poppers, sliders, foam flies, etc, etc.
    I really like the B10S hooks.
    Mark 1:17

  5. #5

    Default

    I like the small eagle claw hooks for salmon eggs.

    Small, and super tough.

    Have a great weekend,
    chris

  6. #6

    Default

    Duckster,

    Are you talking about a 'trailer' hook, one that goes behind the main hook in the fly, or are you asking about what some folks call a 'stinger' style of hook bend used for poppers, deer hair bugs, and such?

    For the trailing hook, when I've found the occasion to use them, I like a treble, size depending on the fly size. If you are having hook up troubles, three points seem to be better than one....

    For poppers and such I do not like that Mustad 37187 'stinger' bend even a little bit. It's an odd shape and I've had penetration problems with it. I prefer the Mustad 'sproat' bend hooks, the 3366 and the 3399 for such things. Simple, effective, inexpensive (just like me, except for the 'effective' part ).

    Buddy
    It Just Doesn't Matter....

  7. #7

    Default

    Buddy, ....trailer type

    I am realizing I should have been more specific but good info coming re: you warm water folks.

    Actually I have a buddy [good pun huh] who wants me to tie up some buggers that don't get as many short strikes ....trout...
    I hate to give up the motion of the longer tail marabou so am thinking a "trailer" hook might be a good answer.

    If anyone wants to take this thread off into discussing dealing with short strikes ...feel free.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina (Northwest corner of SC) USA
    Posts
    2,523

    Red face Sorry, wouldn't recommend 37187

    Hi Duckster,

    Sorry, I wouldn't recommend 37187 for that use. I would probably pick a small, sharp, chemically-treated hook for that type of project. Be sure that trailer hooks are legal in your area. Catch and release waters tend to frown on trailer hooks and dynamite. 8T

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ducksterman View Post
    Buddy, ....trailer type

    I am realizing I should have been more specific but good info coming re: you warm water folks.

    Actually I have a buddy [good pun huh] who wants me to tie up some buggers that don't get as many short strikes ....trout...
    I hate to give up the motion of the longer tail marabou so am thinking a "trailer" hook might be a good answer.

    If anyone wants to take this thread off into discussing dealing with short strikes ...feel free.
    You might try tying some tube style. That way you have only one hook and it puts the hook back in the marabou they sure help for short strikes, and work just as well or better than the traditional tye. Also the shorter hooks used tying these are harder for the fish to throw. Gamakatsu or Owner makes some super sharp hooks that work well but are more costly, just use what ever brand you prefer but keep them short. You might even try the circle type hooks and like them, I haven't tried them myself but I know a few who have and they swear by them. I am going to try them when I run out of the hooks I use now for tube flies.
    I'll be the first to say my advice and $2 may get you a cup of coffee in a cheap place, but it might be worth a try.
    I wish the best to you, Jesse

  10. #10

    Default

    Duckster,

    If your friend is having 'missed' strikes with a 'bugger, they may not be 'short' strikes, but 'mid body' takes. I've seen trout in clear water grab a 'bugger in the 'middle' then spit it out again. The way to tell if it's that or if they striking short is if the ones you do hook are getting caught on the outside of the mouth.

    If it's 'short' strikes, then lengthening the body and shortening the tail (one gape width long) will usually fix it without a trailer hook. If you like long tailed buggers, you may not like how that long tail interacts (read 'tangles') with a trailer hook.

    For trout fishing, I always keep the tails short on any woolly buggers I tie. Just the opposite of what I do for bass....

    AND, another 'option', is to replace the venerable woooly buger with a SemiSeal leech. The nature of this material and the way it's used limits missed and short strikes. The stuff will grab/tangle/loop around/stick to the trouts teeth, giving a bit of extra time to set the hook (they can still spit it out, it's not fool proof, but it does help a little). I've pretty much replaced the 'bugger with this fly and have found that not only does it work in the same situations, but it catches more fish and it's faster to tie.

    Buddy
    It Just Doesn't Matter....

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