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Thread: Cortland 444 classic sylk lines?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
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    Poulsbo, Washington State, U.S.A.
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    4,387

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    I find the tip section sinks at about the same rate as real silk. I do not call that a problem.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Gardnerville, NV
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    158

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    Quote Originally Posted by J Castwell
    I find the tip section sinks at about the same rate as real silk. I do not call that a problem.
    I agree; it's not a problem. Some folks have suggested that the core of the line wicks water, but I attach my leaders with a nail knot and then use a little Knot Sense on it to seal the connection and make a smooth transition point between line and leader; helps with keeping the knot from hanging up in the guides also.
    Dan S
    "I still don't know why I fish or why other men fish, except that we like it and it makes us think and feel." Roderick Haig-Brown, A River Never Sleeps

  3. #13
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    Dec 1999
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    Poulsbo, Washington State, U.S.A.
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    Right Dan, I expected the tip to perform as a real silk line would. It did.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boulder, CO
    Posts
    152

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    Quote Originally Posted by J Castwell
    Jordan,,,, PLEASE,,, tell us about the improvements. What was wrong? What did they do to 'improve' or 'fix' whatever was wrong? When did they do it? How can we tell the 'good' ones on the shelf from the 'poor' ones? Who exactly told you this? They are a sponsor here and I can't get them to tell me. Thank you for letting us all know that the first ones were poor. I have no idea how I did a review of them and didn't notice whatever it was; getting sloppy maybe. I was sure mine were some of the first ones. Maybe from a special batch for testers?
    Alright, here goes, despite the sarcasm. It's pretty long and involved.

    I purchased two Sylk lines here in Co in 2005, DT 4 and DT5. One of them went on an Abel TR2 and the other on a Peerless. I thought the lines cast well right out of the box, and the small diameter seemed to be a good match with the small guides on some of my rods. Unfortunately, the problems began almost immediately. Here in CO, as I'm sure there are in other areas, there are some brush spots where roll casting is the order of the day. The first time I fished the DT4 was at one of these spots. Most of you know that repeated roll casting over the same shoulder puts a twist in your fly line each time you do it, and if you repeat the same roll cast over and over, you should allow your line to unwind from time to time or you can damage it. I knew this.

    After just a few minutes of casting and untwisting, I started to notice little 'bumps' in the fly line when I stripped in. Over the next few minutes the bumps grew larger. What was happening was that the roll cast was twisting the core, but not the outer coating of the line, and it was bunching up inside the line and causing these little lumps. When I would try and untwist the line, it would have no effect on the twisted line core. Eventually, (I kept using the line even though I knew it was a lemon) the bumps got so large that the line had difficulty going through the guides. Just for curiosity's sake, I tried the other line (DT5) and the same problem manifested itself almost immediately. I returned both fly lines to the store, and replaced them with 444 SL classic. I kept three cut sections of the line, and mailed them off to Cortland with a little letter explaining what had happened. I never received a response, but I didn't really mind, since the lines had already been replaced. Now, you might say that this problem was my fault, and that, in approximating the performance of silk, the problem I experienced is an intended feature, or the result of misuse on my part. I can't really say, since I have never fished a silk line. I can say that it's a problem I've never encountered, after 10 years of fishing all sorts of PVC lines.

    And JC: I know this is your house, and your rules, but you can take your passive-aggressive sarcasm and shove it. I wasn't knocking one of your sponsors - I was just answering a question posed by another user.

    JBW

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Buena Vista Co.
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    Did you try roll casting off the other shoulder to untwist them?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boulder, CO
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    152

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gramps
    Did you try roll casting off the other shoulder to untwist them?
    Yeah - That's normally what I do, but in a lot of places, it's too tight, and so I strip off a good bit of line and let it untwist in the current or even do it manually. The problem was that it wasn't untwisting the line core - the lumps and bumps that were all over the first 30 feet of my line were not untwisting, no matter how I tried. After only a single day of fishing, a couple of the bumps had gotten so large that they were starting to break through the coating.

    I have since read many favorable reviews of this product, and the only problem people seem to experience is the sticky coating in hot weather. I didn't have my lines long enough for this to become a problem. I have local friends who swear by these lines, so I can only assume that the lines I got were either bad ones, or the problem has been addressed. Who knows? In any case, though I like Cortland lines, Sylk is just not for me.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Leduc Alberta Canada
    Posts
    50

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    I just picked up a Sylk line, so I'll keep an eye out for that problem. Thanks for pointing it out. Cortland stands behind their product so if it is a problem I'm sure they would replace it.

    Regards Mike
    Inside every old man is a young man saying " what the hell happened "

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Buena Vista Co.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jordan
    Quote Originally Posted by Gramps
    Did you try roll casting off the other shoulder to untwist them?
    Yeah - That's normally what I do, but in a lot of places, it's too tight, and so I strip off a good bit of line and let it untwist in the current or even do it manually. The problem was that it wasn't untwisting the line core - the lumps and bumps that were all over the first 30 feet of my line were not untwisting, no matter how I tried. After only a single day of fishing, a couple of the bumps had gotten so large that they were starting to break through the coating.

    I have since read many favorable reviews of this product, and the only problem people seem to experience is the sticky coating in hot weather. I didn't have my lines long enough for this to become a problem. I have local friends who swear by these lines, so I can only assume that the lines I got were either bad ones, or the problem has been addressed. Who knows? In any case, though I like Cortland lines, Sylk is just not for me.
    I understand it wasn't untwisting with the normal methods. I just thought if the force of a roll cast caused the twist. Maybe a roll cast in the other direction could undo it.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Pomona, Cailf.
    Posts
    137

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    Thanks everyone for the replys. After reading JC commits and a few of the replys, I found myself spooling up some new Cortland DT 5 WT sylk line. I kind of go blank and lose track of time and space when I get excited about things like this. Now I'm wondering if I went to work or not? Oh well, about the line. It's a wonderful line to cast. I truly think I got my moneys worth this time! I am pretty hard to please when it comes to new products. I'm happy with this line. Thanks again everyone, later.

  10. #20

    Default Flyster, Please Respond

    Flyster, I have not heard from you, and never received your check. Please re-send and notify me immediately.

    I can only assume that you have received the hooks.

    Thanks for getting back to me.

    Bill

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