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Thread: New Coat - One year later? - Permagloss

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  1. #1

    Default New Coat - One year later? - Permagloss

    Just wondering... I built a rod last year and used permagloss over the wraps. After looking at it throughout this year I am not very happy with the result (looks a bit lumpy). I am now getting ready to build another rod and wondering if (while the bottle is open and the brush is wet) I can add another coat to last years build in the hopes it levels off better.

    Any opinions??


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Northern California


    I don't know why you couldn't add to the old Permagloss. It seems to me it is no different that waiting a day or so to add another layer or coat when you made the rod in the first place. I would rough it up a little bit with sand paper and then go for it.

    I also used Permagloss to finish a rod -- actually I really just gave up on it -- this weekend. I like the ease of applying Permagloss but I could never get the nice contour over the wraps that I can get with the Epoxy. I sanded out spots and also cut off permagloss that built up too much and got lumpy.

    Good luck - let us know how it all worked.

  3. #3


    The answer to your question is yes you can add another coat or two. Lighlty sand it first so it has something to really adhere to.

    On another note, permagloss will give a super finish but you have to do a few things to obtain that, unless you apply it super thin and many coats. I spin the rod on a rod drying motor at 43 rpm while applying and leave it turning for about 15 minutes after application so that it doesn't have the opportunity to "sag". Most folks don't have that capability to do that so what you would need to do is to apply very thin and even coats, and after the first two or thee coats applied, begin applying light coats with the brush tip running perpendicular to the wraps, rather than around the wraps.

    This stuff isn't like applying epoxy where you can manually turn it by hand every 5 minutes or so until it begins to set up. As you know, it goes on nice and easy and is pretty thin so it will have a tendency to run. It does however set up very quickly and that is a plus.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    North East United States


    I use quite a bit of Permagloss in my rod work.
    I find that the key to success is thin coats and a faster RPM when turning the rod.
    Because the material cures up so fast if the rod is rotating slow it tends bunch up or glump.
    Another problem is the shelf life A partly used bottle has a tendency for the unused material to change in viscosity and get thicker.
    As per the Manufacturers instruction I put the partly used bottle in a sealed plastic container and keep it in the refrigerator this really extends the shelf life and also keeps the original viscosity of th material.
    The other thing I do is I only put small amounts of material in a cup at at time enough for 3 or 4 wraps.
    After I have applied the material to say 4 wraps I clean my brush and get another clean cup add enough for 4 more wraps and so on.
    When the material gets to the point that it starts to loose it's original viscosity (thicken) I thin the amount I am going to use in a cup with a eye dropper a drop or 2 of acetone at a time until I have the viscosity I want.
    When going over old wraps and finishes I scuff them up with either scotch bright or in some cases fine sand paper.
    This is very important or the new finish may lift later.
    Another thing I almost forgot to mention is the need to inspect the material for floaters.
    Often the material will develop a ring of hardened material at the neck of the bottle .
    When removing the ring be very carful not to allow any of the hardened material to drop in the bottle even the smallest flakes will cause clumps if applied to your rod.
    When I pour the material from the bottle I clean ID of the neck and inside of the cap with a dust free rag or Q Tip swab.
    This helps to keep the hardened material from forming at the neck of the bottle.
    If I do have floaters as I like to call them and I only do this when I absolutely need too I pour the material through a coffee filter to remove the floaters.
    Most times though I just toss the bottle and start a new one.
    The other thing I do is I only purchase the small bottles this aids in the loss of material as I find most times I end up tossing a good amount of the larger bottle because of shelf life issues or floaters.
    With the smaller bottle I have better luck and less hassles.
    I hope I have been some help.

    Tight Lines and Less Hassle Loops
    Andy M

  5. #5


    hey Andy, I certainly would not dispute the thinning of the permagloss with acetone that you are doing but here is what I was told by their team of experts at the manufacturer.... I do love using this product a lot and have for some time now. I plan on getting one of these cans and using it in the future. I like your thoughts on taking enough from the container to do 3 or 4 wraps, then sealing the bottle back up..thanks for the tips.


    No, acetone is definitely not compatible with Perma Gloss. Adding a solvent
    once it begins to thicken would probably cause you problems. Perma Gloss
    does not thicken with relationship to solvent, it thickens because moisture
    in the air acts as a catalyst to cause it to harden and cure. The only way
    to prevent the thickening is by not exposing it to air, especially moist
    air. Have you tried using a metal can with a screw? Here is the website of
    Joe Kassuba who sells cans which work perfect for Perma Gloss:
    www.hisrodshop.com hisrodshop@charter.net

    Kindest regards,
    Dan - Customer Service
    Trondak, Inc.

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