Trucos de montaje

Really Dry Flies
By Nicholas Gaitt (aka: B.C. Nick)


This tip was emailed to me in reply to the "Thinking Outside the Square Box" article. It is a different way of considering floatant on dry flies. There are other articles in the Tying Tips Archives on this topic, but this one strike me as an example of some radical thinking. ~ Steven H. McGarthwaite


There are flies for fast water that are large and bushy designed to ride on top of the surface film, through "no hackle" dry flies designed for much calmer waters, suspended in the surface film, through hackled and foam patterns where the majority of the fly body is suspended under the water.

Each of these styles (there are many in between), pose problems for the tier, in that there is a balancing act between the abilities of each to float, and proportioning the fly properly. How often has it been that a dry fly that works is too pared down to float consistently, that after several runs through a pool, or in removing the slime after catching fish, it sinks, and in changing to a heavier hackled pattern the fish will not bite? How often have you dried a fly of fish slime added more floatant and it still sinks?

Fortunately technological breakthroughs have occurred, and you can now purchase floatants that when applied will make your fly float virtually indefinitely, the only problem with these floatants is that they must be applied at least 24 hours before one goes fishing. These products when applied to the whole fly create a fly that floats ON the surface film, a fly that floats ON the surface film is in my mind a fly that has few applications.

I will propose several uses for this floatant, that will allow you to use this product advantageously, so that you can "custom dry" your dry flies according to the conditions on a lake or stream, allowing you more versatility in your fly design, confidently knowing that they will float, how you want them to.

Now, to create dry flies using the methods I propose, you must first choose the hackle you wish to use, sizing it and placing it in rows 14s-16s-18s, and then apply your floatant TO THE HACKLE. Once you have done this your hackle INCLUDING the stem of the hackle is virtually impervious to water. At this point you walk away, leaving the treated hackle for several days so that it can dry thoroughly. For large fast water flies I like to repeat this process giving each hackle two coats to ensure maximum float ability of the hackle.

I do this because having treated the hackle in this way I have confidence that an adequately hackled fly will float, and then I can create a body for the fly that can be designed to float ON, IN, or BELOW, the surface film. You can then judiciously apply floatant to the body of the fly OR NOT and if designed properly your fly will perform as it should. This method works particularly well with parachute flies, and emerger patterns.

I can only point you in the right direction with this, as experimentation is the life blood of our sport, and each of us have our own ideas of how the flies we create should appear to fish below the surface of the water, but I can find no disadvantages in using this method. ~ Nicholas Gaitt (B.C.Nick)


Please check out the Fly Tying Section, on the Bulletin Board, on FAOL too.

If you have any questions, tips, or techniques; send them along. Someone else thought up most of this material before we did, they just forgot to tell anyone about it. Or else we just forgot about it, while learning something else. Let us share with each other, all the things we know! ~ Steven H. McGarthwaite (Chat Room AKA Parnelli)

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