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Fly Tying Terms

Sparkle Dun, PMD
Text and photos by Harry Mason,

Materials: Sparkle Dun, PMD (Pale Morning Dun)

    Hook: TMC 100,14-18.

    Thread: Pale olive, olive, pale yellow, 6/0, 8/0.

    Body: olive, pale yellowpale olive,dubbing, quill or biot.

    Tail: Z-lon/Antron, rust,lite olive.

    Wing: Light Deer, semi hollow.

    Tips: Finding the hair for wing is the trick.

Tying Instructions: Sparkle Dun, PMD

    1. Covering the hook shank completely with thread is important. We do not want the wing hair to spin. A good thread base will help prevent this.

    2. Clean and stack some deer hair for the wing. Bring the stacked hair to the hook with the tips out over the eye. The less one handles any type of hair to be applied to a hook the better. The more you handle the hair, the more difficult it becomes to tie on to a hook.

    3. The length of hair for the wing is equal to the length of the hook shank. In general, that is the distance measured from a point just behind the eye, to a point on the hook shank directly above the barb of the hook. The line above, marks the point on the hair that will tied in as the wing. Next, move the hair to the right so as to be directly above the thread.

    4. The wing tie in point is now above the thread. The wing height is now the length of hair to the right of the thread. For the tie in itself, I like to use a "blind capture." This is done by making a loose turn of thread that comes up between my thumb and hair on this side and down between my index finger and hair on the "back side." I make two or three of these turns. You should not be able to see the turns of thread since they are between your fingers. Notice also that the hair is on top of the hook shank.

    5. The thread is hidden but still it is around the hair and hook. Maintain the position of the hair; above the hook shank.

    6. I have moved my fingers here to show the capture wraps.

    7. As you cinch down to bind in the hair, "roll" your left thumb and index finger with the hair, down onto the hook shank as you tighten the wraps of thread. This motion keeps the hair on top of the hook shank... a Good Thing.

    8. The typical angle cut of the wing hair butts.

    9. The completed cut. The line makes reference to the cut angle. This angle cut allows for a clean, tapered thread base for the body. A square cut would require thirty more turns and a mile of thread to fill and taper the gap. Also, note the hair is now tied in firmly above the hook shank.

    10. I want the wraps here to land in a precise location, so I use my thumbnail and index finger as thread guides. By moving the "edge" they create, I can place thread exactly where I need it. The thread slides off this edge and into place as I wrap.

    11. The butts are bound down and are tapered, as shown by the line, for a clean dubbed body line.

    12. Now we will post the wing up. Pull all the wing hair back from the eye as shown. We want to produce a thread "dam" here to force the hair up to a vertical position. The thread "dam" should be a cone like affair, not just a bunch of wraps at the base of the hair. That would just fall over and the wing will fail and protrude forward of the eye. The taped cone will keep the hair in place.

    13. Force the thread firmly up against the wing!

    14. After you have made a small tapered thread dam, pull the wing fibers back once again.

    15. With the hair pulled back, force your thumbnail down into the crease formed by the hair and the thread dam. Roll your thumb nail back towards the hook bend. This will force the hair up even more and will allow you to place a few more wraps right at the base of the wing. This will insure the wing will stay vertical. DUBBING will NOT support the wing!

    16. Place more firm wraps right at the base of the wing. Then take the thread under and back behind the wing for the tailing.

    17. Completed wing, as viewed from the front.

    18. From behind...

    19. Here is the tie in of the crinkled Z-lon/Antron tail fibers. The tail is under my thumb. The material to the right will be trimmed.

    20. Tailing is now tied in. Trim the Z-lon to about the shank length or a bit less. Use the Z-lon sparingly. A sparse tail on this fly is preferable to heavy one.

    21. The dubbing has begun. Remember to twist/tighten the dubbing after each rotation around the hook. Use very fine dubbing material. Pick all the guard hairs from any natural furs you may use.

    22. Continue the dubbing process...

    23. Dub to the point where you have but one wrap left to finish the body. Leave this space open. The reason being we must have some method to cover/dub under the wing area....

    24. Move the thread forward of the body area to in front of the wing. Unlike the above photo,you do not need any dubbing on the thread at this point.

    25. Apply some dubbing and then make a wrap in front of the wing, at the base. Tighten dub with each turn.

    26. The next move is to the rear of the wing and fill the space we left open.

    27. The area below the wing is now covered on the tiers side. Now bring the dubbing back over going away and under, towards the eye.

    28. We are now coming back under and forward, covering the "back side" of the underwing area. It's a figure eight of sorts. It may require more than just one turn to fill.

    29. Just a continuation of the dubbing process.

    30. Wrap a head and whip finish and your done!

    31. From behind...

    32. From the front.

    33. PMD Sparkle Dun. ~ Harry (bones)

About Harry:

Harry Mason is the owner of which has wonderful flies, and excellent tutorials. Harry is also a Sponsor of FAOL. Thanks Harry!

For more great flies, check out: Beginning Fly Tying, Intermediate Fly Tying and Advanced Fly Tying.

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