Bombers & Bugs
By Marc Madore

Marc Madore is a serious Tyer and fisher. He studies the environment that his flies will be used in and also studies the habits of his quarry, the fish. When he develops a new pattern or uses an old standard, it will not escape his keen analysis of all facets of its use.

In this section, Marc discusses the venerable Bombers & Bugs. He ties and fishes them a little differently than most and he as usual, presents the well thought out rationale for it. ~ Ronn


Bomber


Bug

The Bomber dry flies should not be confused with wet-fly patterns of the same name. Bombers were developed in the 1960s for use on New Brunswick River and popularized by the late Reverend Elmer Smith. Bombers can be fished dry (the usual practice), dry and dragging (with a fast skittering motion), or wet (like any other sunken fly). They are effective in each technique.

When the water becomes cold 42 degrees or less, this dry fly has very little effect on the salmon at that temperature.

There are many variations as to how the fly should or could look like, Cigar shape, tapered or other forms. In my experience it does not make much difference to the fish, they are not fussy; it is more a matter of preference. There are certain tying points that should be taken into consideration that will make a difference as to how the fly performs either in the air (casting) or in the water.

A few thoughts on materials and technique for tying this fly.
Tail and wing materials. The original bomber had no wing(s) should we have one? Should it be a single or double wing, should it be upright or lay low as a snout! The models presented are double wings tied upright; this seems to be the most popular at our shop but not everywhere. This method allows the hook eye to be free and can be seen a little better in the water, there is very little or no difference to the fish. My personal preference (if I put one on) is the double wing tied low over the eye as a snout, this gives the fly a little better stability and floatability to the fly, similar to the original Whisker fly tied by Mr. Butterfield. I do take into consideration the materials I use because on our large river, one sometimes must cast a fair distance to reach the fish. I keep away from deer hair as I find it creates a lot of air resistance and prefer calf body hair and the more available calf tail.

Hackle
Common questions asked:
Should we palmer using a single or double hackle? Some folks feel a double hackle is required, I feel it's a waste of one good hackle. Use the second to tie another bomber you will probably loose the first fly. The bomber mostly floats on its body and not on the hackle at least not for long. On our waters we like this fly not to site too high up, there are those that prefer otherwise so put two hackles if you like.

What type and quality of hackle? I use saddle hackles no. 3 quality. Should the hackle be palmered towards the front or towards the rear? Should the hackle be pointing towards the rear (wet style) or towards the front (dry style) should one tie the hackle by the tip or the butt? I feel it doesn't make much of a difference with this fly which way the hackle is pointing or what direction you palmer it, as it is quite heavy and will very soon float on its body.

What I do and why is as follows; I prefer tying my hackle by the tip at the rear of the fly, once I trim the body I tie my thread at the tail, tie on my hackle wrap the thread towards the head, at the tie off position, palmer my hackle towards the head and tie it off. You can palmer from front to back, tie on your hackle by the head, wrap your thread towards the tail, palmer the hackle rearward tie off the hackle cut the remaining stem, then wrap your thread through the hackle towards the head and whip finish amend.

I face my hackle towards the rear, simply to reduce wind resistance (wet style) I also fold the hackle, it palmers easier through the deer hair, rather than sticking straight up never looks good to me that way, mind you the fish don't care.

Tying by the tip or the butt? If you have a short hackle from a neck rather than a saddle you can tie it by the tip and palmer towards the head having the longer hackle fibers ending by the head. If you have a long saddle hackle with reasonably even length fibers you can tie it by the butt and palmer forward, I tie them all by the tip.

How many wraps of hackle do I need? Size 4 hook six (6) will do, size 6 hook four (4) will do, just to keep the character of the fly, my customer's want at least ten (10) the fish can't count I think! More sometimes is not always better, but everyone has there preferences and that's great, the fish will take it anyway, I've fished them with the hackle broken and dragging behind and caught those elusive fish.

What type and size of hook? I prefer a 3X long shank. The hook should be of light wire but strong, a good low water hook will do just fine, up or down eye hook makes no difference.

How tight should the deer body hair be? Tie the clumps of deer hair at 90% thread strength so the body hair once tied will not turn easily as this will break the hackle. I do not press each clump of deer hair together very tight, it's better to have a loose body, it helps this fly float better, and everything helps.

What thread should I use? 6/0 or 3/0 monocord should do the trick.

How long should the tail and wing be? A small bunch of moderate length, no longer than the length of the body.

If you have the book Flies for Atlantic Salmon by Dick Steward & Farrow Allen on pages 14 and 15 there is information on the bombers that might be on interest, most of which I concur.

I do find however the better productive method of fishing this fly is the more traditional method, select a small piece of the pie 3-5 feet of water you wish to fish, cast it slightly upstream stop it when it's on target and about 10-20 feet in the air and let it flutter and drop softly to the water, rather than just banging or slapping down on the water, allow a free drift for about 3-5 feet only, you don't always want to give these selective fish to much time to look it over, gently lift it out of the water by raising your rod to lift most of the line then give your wrist a good snap upwards lifting the bomber out of the water rather than a big slurpppppppp, like many do.

The basic construction
Cigar or tapered shape

    Tail: A small bunch of white, brown, yellow or green hair the colors depends on what combinations you are trying to achieve of moderate length.

    Body: Clipped deer body hair to the desired shape, not packed to tight.

    Ribbing: A saddle hackle, the color what ever you are trying to achieve tied in by the tip or butt, palmered through the clipped body hair from tail to head.

    Wing: A small bunch of hair (same color as the tail) nearly as long as the body, tied in so as to extend straight forward, or straight up depending on what you are trying to achieve, these could be split or single wings.

    Head: Color of choice.

Tying instructions

This lesson might be a little challenging to you so I apologize ahead of time. We are showing the steps for both styles of fly at the same time since their construction is so similar.

    1. Attach the thread and lay down a thread base to the rear of the fly. Attach the wire for the tag.

    2. Apply the tag and tie in the tail.

    3. Tie on the floss with the tag end to the rear of the fly as shown. Wrap the floss to the rear leaving the tag end protruding. Pull the tag over the top of the floss as shown in the close shot of the butt. This will keep the floss from "falling off" the rear of the fly. This technique works on other flies as well particularly where the floss does not have a high rib to fall against and keep it in place.

    4. Repeat step three with the red floss.

    5. Wrap an underbody if you are using dubbing.

    6. Tie on a hackle a short distance from the rear of the body.

    7. Dub the body in a cigar shape as shown.

    8. After wrapping the hackle forward, tie off and trim. Finished dubbed body Bug shown.

    9. Back to the Bomber. Tie on the tail and wing as shown.

    10. Stand up and divide the wings as shown and tie on a bunch of Deer hair and spin it as shown.

    11. Repeat step 10 as many times as needed.

    12. Shape the body as shown. Attach the thread at slightly short of the end of the body and tie on one or two hackles, tie off and trim.

    13. Wrap the hackle/s forward fairly closely being sure to work the shaft into the body well. Tie off and finish as shown.

    14. Back to the more conventional Bug. Tie on the tail and spin one bunch of Deer hair.

    15. Repeat step 14 as often as needed.

    16. Shape the body, reattach the thread and tie on one or two hackles as shown.

    17. Wrap the hackle forward, tie off and finish the fly.

Conventional Bombers tied by Marc Madore

Conventional Bugs tied by Marc Madore


Bomber with all hackle body, tied by Marc Madore


Bomber with herl & hackle body, tied by Marc Madore

Bugs with Dubbed Variations, tied by Marc Madore

There are many more variation of the Bomber and Bugs than shown here. Let your imagination and materials be your guide to tying these flies. ~ Ronn

*About Marc Madore

Born in 1942 in Timmins, Ontario, Canada, most of his youth was spent along the rivers and lakes of this area.

After a full career with the Armed Forces, he retired in the community of Blackville, New Brunswick along the Miramichi River where he could pursue his passion in Salmon angling and tying.

As a professional Fly Tyer and one who never sought recognition, he is widely known as a premier fly dresser by his peers both in North America and Europe.

Marc's work has appeared in several Fly Fishing and outdoors magazines. A number of his patterns were published in the books Modern Atlantic Salmon Flies and, lately in Shrimp and Spey Flies for Salmon and Steelhead (Stackpole Books). He tied the signature fly for the Miramichi River Valley to the Royal Family.

Marc enjoys his retirement on the Miramichi where he maintains a life style emerged in the fly fishing sport.

As a perfectionist, Marc is constantly challenged to produce well tied flies that not only attract fish but also traditional and contemporary flies for the fly fisher and collector.

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