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Thread: Dai Riki Hooks

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    DFW metroplex, TX USA
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    1,164

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    I do most of my tying on Dai-Riki hooks and have very rarely had them break --maybe 2 out of 500 or less. I use a flat jaw pliers to debarb and usually come in from the side as that is easier for me and it seems to work fine. Most of the flies I tie are in the 16 to 20 range. Wonder if the problem is a bad batch?

    Here's a bonus tip for Dai-Riki hook users. Know those flexible magnet sheets that are often printed with messages from plumbers, pizza joints, etc in the hope you'll stick their phone number on your refrigerator? Cut them in to the right size to fit the Dai-Riki hook packages. They help to avoid spilling hooks and seem to make it easier to pull out one hook at a time.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Mooresboro, NC, USA
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    I use the same type of pliers ScottP uses and they work well for me. I've used a wide variety of hooks, including dai riki, and have never had many problems, maybe 4-5 hooks out of thousands have broken at the vise. Could be a bad batch of hooks. Also, when your crimping down the barb be careful to not squeeze too hard.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Portage, PA
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    2,900

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    I, too, use the same type of pliers as ScottP. My buddy said they don't shatter for him either. I guess I'm being too heavy handed when crimping the barb. I'll give it a try tonight.

  4. #14
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    Dec 2003
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    28433 N State Lamoni, Ia 50140
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    I do it from the side. I have maybe 1 out of 200 hooks break on me. Trouble is they seem to happen at the same time.
    I think it is just a bad batch. Happen with Dai-riki and Mustad.

    Rick

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    South Louisiana
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    You can get a bad batch of hooks from ANY manufacturer... If you delve around on the internet you'll find postings complaining about most brands having put out a bad box of hooks at some point in history. I know that I've have a number of bad Mustads over the years, but I still regularly purchase and tie with Mustads.

    While it may work in most cases, using your vice to debarb is just asking for trouble... With that said, I must admit that I've done it, more than once.

    The advise about flat-jawed pliers was excellent... Everyone should own a set. I've owned a number of flat-jawed pliers over the years, and the very best flat-jawed pliers that I've found for debarbbing are made by Xuron. The jaws are very narrow which allows for perfect debarbing of everything from 6/0 down to 26's...

    But ALWAYS debarb your hook before tying the fly! Then if it breaks, it's no big deal...

    my two cents,

    Bowfin47
    Last edited by bowfin47; 01-20-2012 at 03:44 PM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Prescott AZ
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    If anyone is looking for smooth jawed pliers, the're as close as wal-mart, hit the crafting section look in the beading area. small needle nosed pliers with no serrations.

    Eric
    "Complexity is easy; Simplicity is difficult."
    Georgy Shragin
    Designer of ppsh41 sub machine gun

  7. #17

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    I actually began tying years ago with Tiemco hooks, and quit using them because the nymph hooks were breaking mid-shank. They just seemed harder and far more brittle. I went to Mustad and never had a problem. I've tied quite a bit with Dai-riki however and never had a problem. But I only crimp my barbs at the stream when I am required. Otherwise, they stay as manufactured.

  8. #18

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    Bowfin,

    I saw where you posted that using your vise to debarb hooks is 'asking for trouble'.

    I disagree, and actually see it as the best tool for the job under all but a very few specific circumstances. Those being primarily where the vise jaw won't fit into the gape of the hook.

    Here's how I see it: My vise is an expensive tool that allows you to apply stable, steady pressure. I can hold the hook securely at the proper angle with one hand while using the cam handle of the vise to gently close the jaws against the barb. I can precisely control how much pressure I apply and how far I 'crimp' the barb. I seldom break a hook. I don't have to pick up another tool, and when this operation is complete I'm less than a second away from having the hook in place in the vise ready to tie.

    I've heard that doing this might damage the vise jaws? The hardened tool steel of the jaws is manufactured to be cam locked against the hook shank so it will hold it securely while tying. You are applying no more pressure than you do to 'hold' the hook. Using the jaws to crimp a barb shouildn't damage them (if it did it would be because of faulty jaws).

    Using hand held pliers to debarb hooks seems risky at best. You have to hold two things aligned at once while applying pressure to one of them. Get either out of alignment, and the hook can break. or you drop the hook, or you pinch your fingers, or......

    I've done thousands of hooks with the jaws on my DynaKing, and as far as I can tell, the jaws are just fine.

    Is there something I'm missng here?

    Buddy
    It Just Doesn't Matter....

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Western Portal Sequoia National Forest & the G.T.W., Kern River, CA.
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    Another work around for broken barbs, buying a pair of smooth jawed pliers, etc. etc. is simply starting out with a manufactured barbless hook.

    Best, Dave

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Grand Junction CO. U.S.A.
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    It's easyer for me to pinch down a barb than add one. I will stick with the barbed variety. Helps keep the bait from sliding off the hook.

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