thread, bobbin, and head cement?

[brainiac]

And don't buy an el cheapo ceramic bobbin. I have two that cut thread as well or better than a straight razor.

[DG]

I second or seventh or whatever the 6/0 and 8/0 thread recommendations. I use uni. I believe you could get by with ANY color, but like most of us I have every color, but use one or two of them most of the time. Start with black or some other drab color if you want to go minimalist.

Forget the wax, you can live without it. I seldom use it.

Forget the head cement, you can live without it. I haven't used any in almost fifteen years.

I prefer shorter bobbins over longer ones. Don't get too cheap, find one that holds the spool well and fits in your hand. I have a lot of bobbins, so I don't have to keep changing thread. I can just reach for the bobbin loaded with what I want. But if you only have one color of thread, then you only need one bobbin! *S*

[Normand]

6/0 & 8/0 thread in black, white, tan, red or just get white and appropriately colored sharpie markers

griffs thin head cement

ceramic bobbin holder from whoever makes them, pick your favorite

wax - as a beginner give it a try. as you get better at dubbing, try it without wax.

[gadabout]

For thread I use mostly Danville Flymaster 6/0. You can start out with just two colors: black, and either white, cream, or very pale yellow. You can add other colors later - probably gray and brown would be next.

I have used Matarelli stainless steel bobbins for 30 years and love them. They are very well made and with average tying will last forever. You really only need one bobbin, but having multiple will save you the trouble of changing threads when you want to switch to a different color. Good advice for a beginner would be to buy one now and then add one or two more whenever you run across a good deal. A lot of people like the ceramic bobbins. I've never used one so I have no comment.

I used dubbing wax for years because I thought I was supposed to. When my supply of Overton's Wonder Wax ran out I tried dubbing without the wax and found that I got pretty much the same result. Duh! There is some wax already on the thread so I think you can do without adding extra wax, at least for the dubbing techniques I use.

I am not too particular about head cement. I usually buy whatever I find at my local fly shop. You'll need some thinner too as the head cement will thicken up after awhile. You don't need to add thinner to a new bottle though. A few years ago I started using Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails on wet flies and streamers because of the nice glossy finish (needs 3 or 4 coats). This is strictly for cosmetics. You can use head cement on everything if you want.

[fishin' fool]

Thank you all very much. I think I've got it. 6/0 and 8/0 threads(I'll get bigger when I get into bigger streamers and deer hair bugs) in a few colors, one bobbin thats comfortable(ceramic and not overly expensive), nail polish, and a wax toilet bowl ring.

It sounds like not many people use the dubbing wax. Whats it for and why is it every catalog if its not really needed or used very often?

[kbproctor]

Because folks like us buy it thinking we need it when we really don't.

I keep looking for something like that to sell to all of the unsuspecting fly folks so I can retire and spend my time fishing.

[Ron Eagle Elk]

There are some dubbing techniques that go a lot smoother with a good tacky dubbing wax. When I use wax, I go with BT's Tacky or Extra Tacky wax. Good stuff, and Al Beatty (BT) is a sponsor of this fine site.

For threads I use Danville's 6/0 (70 Denier) for most regular tying. If I'm tying smaller flies (18 and smaller) I use Gordon Griffith's 10/0. I prefer unbonded threads to bonded threads like Uni. The unbonded threads can be wrapped very flat or tightly corded, depending on your needs at the time.

For bobbin holders, the best advise you got was to find one that feels good in your hands. I'd like to add that bit of advise to selecting any tying tool. If it feels awkward, try a different brand. A good ceramic or ruby tipped bobbin holder will last for years if properly used.

Since I use a lot of Pearsall's silk thread I also use tying wax of several different mixtures and color tints. Nothing you need to worry about now though.

For well waxed silk thread I don't use any head cement at all. For flies tied with regular thread for my own fishing, no head cement either. For swap flies or flies that are for looking pretty, a couple coats of Cellire varnish or Sally Hansens Hard as Nails works just fine.

REE

[quivira kid]

For thread, I've really settled into using Danville Flymaster 6/0 and Uni 8/0. I learned through use that it really depends on the style of fly as to what thread is best for the application. My best flies with the neatest heads have been with that flat-laying Flymaster thread.

For my bluegill flies and most trout bugs, I use 8/0 Uni. It's just a dang good all-around thread. But for my wet flies, and flies I'm tying for "looks" and not just "quick and easy fishing flies", the Danville gets grabbed.

You can get away with black, brown or olive, and a cream or tan for 99% of flies really easy.

Wax and head cement are optional for most applications, in my opinion. I used to put head cement on, but I think if you put a good whip finish on your fly, it will get beat up beyond recognition before it falls apart. I tried wax, using a simple direct dubbing technique. However, I got better results without it and using a dubbing loop.

There is no one correct way to tie flies. Buy stuff and try it for yourself! THAT is how to learn!

[Normand]

It sounds like not many people use the dubbing wax. Whats it for and why is it every catalog if its not really needed or used very often?

heres a little article on dubbing wax

http://www.bugcrafters.com/index.php...neral&Itemid=5

[DG]

Catalogs do not provide products people NEED, but rather products the company wants you to buy from them. Marketing!