skondolf:
I'll offer a couple of ideas to ponder on "artificial" flies floating. I'll leave the natural fly behavior to the experts and those that like to intellectualize those things. I happen to believe that trout are stupid and will eat anything when they are hungry...
In any case:
- A dry fly with too much hackle in the tail can actually wick up water and cause the butt of your fly to sink. Tying the tail sparser with HIGH QUALITY spade hackle or Microfibbettes can help. Also, make sure the fibers you use are long enough to tie the tail WITHOUT needing to expose any of the webby fibers near the butt of the hackle stem. Those webby fibers will wick up water fast. Unfortunately, many genetic necks lack the stiff long spade hackle perfect for tailing Catskill dries. Of course splitting the fibers so they function as outriggers helps too, but if you like Catskill dries, you don't want or need a split tail.
When I do want a split tail, I attach my thread to the hook and leave a long tag which I DON'T cut off. I then wind my thread over the tag keeping it on top of the hook shank to the end of the hook. Next I tie in my tail fibers and pull the thread tag between the fibers to split them. It works like a charm, offers a more natural look and saves the time I used to waste making a dubbing ball.
- While it shouldn't have to be an exact science, proportions have a LOT to do with how a fly lands and floats. Too tall a wing, hackle length and tail length all come into play. When I am constructing a dry fly, I typically do a drop test with the first fly I tie on my bench. If it lands properly, I assume I have the proportions correct; if not, I adjust them accordingly on the next fly.
- A hook that is too heavy combined with less than stellar hackle can cause the hook to ride too low. I use Daiichi 1180's with great results. Even though the Mustad 94840 was the Catskill standard for years, I always like the lighter wire 94833 better.
- Believe it or not, your leader or knot can also be the culprit. A heavier tippet can prevent the fly from landing or moving as freely and a clinch knot combined with the surface tension on the leader can also screw up your float. If your flies repeatedly land incorrectly, try using a Duncan Loop or Uni Knot to secure your fly to your leader. I found that when I have "landing" issues, a loop allows the fly to adjust more easily and negates the effect of surface tension on the fly's position as related to the leader.
- Frog Fanny cures a multitude of sins!! Before I fell in love with the stuff I ONLY used liquid floatant on my flies. I'm talking about solvent based products like Liquid Mucilin or homemade concoctions that the old timers used that are in a liquid state like water. Liquid floatant has a solvent that evaporates and leaves behind a miniscule amount of product that repels water. I never used paste because it just gunks up a fly and adds weight IMHO. Even though stuff like Gink liquefies on your finger tips when applied, it congeals back into a pasts as soon as it hits the water. I know guys swear by it but I found the results to short lived.
Have fun figuring it out!
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