Need advice on reels.

[logan1193]

I have just finished fishing for the year here in Nova Scotia and it seems that I've found myself upgrading my gear already. I just bought a new Sage SLT that I will use for fishing salmon next season (its a 4-piece, 9' 8wt.). The problem is that I am in need of a new reel and I've been getting lots of different opinions on which to buy. The problem that seems to come into play is whether I am choosing a reel that matches this rod or not. Does the weight of a reel relative to its rod affect casting? The SLT is a fairly light rod so should I pick out a reel that weighs less? Or does it make a difference? If so any suggestions on which to buy?

[harleybob87]

I think the reel weight to rod weight ratio is important but..........most important how does the reel preform for the purpose it was bought. Keep in mind I am a tight wad when it comes to buying equipment. I like the pflueger president and trion reels the president comes in at 6.3 oz for a 8weight and preforms quite well. At 6.6 oz the trion is a little heavier but still a great preformer. Both can be purchased at the $100 mark depending on where you buy it at. Watched a friend of mine tame a 30+ inch steelhead on the Salmon river with a trion. Just my 2 cents worth.

[setnhooked]

Logan,
I may get shot down on this but from what I gather on personal experience it is how you want the weight distribution to feel. I bring my rod to a shop and take a few casts to see if I like how the whole assembly feels and balances. One thing to consider is that unbalanced reels (heavy or light) may increase fatigue. If you want to go into the physics of it I would be happy to explain fulcrums if you viewed the rod as a rigid object.

You can also get a Ross Cimarron #4 near the $100 price point if you do some digging around. It's not as sexy as their other reels but I've found it a reliable workhorse with a decent drag.

[Colston Newton]

If the reel is too light or too heavy you won't enjoy casting it. It should balance so that the tipping point between the reel/grip and the rod is right around the front of the grip. When casting, you shouldn't even be aware the reel is there.

[Jack Hise]

Logan;
Some very good points brought up by some very fine flyfishers. I can only add that the amount of backing you may need should be considered. I have an 8 wt. rig set up for Stripers, Seelhead, Salmon, etc. that has yet to see water!! (It's 'a just in case' rig) The reel, a Courtland Endurance, looks like a spare tire attached to the reel seat!! 200 yards of 30# backing!!
Balance, as pointed out, should include having some line out also. IMHO a heavy reel is less tiring than a top heavy rod.

[BlueDun]

Logan,

Another important factor to consider when buying a reel for salmon fishing is drag. I am certainly not an expert in this area, so I'll let the more experienced and knowledgable folks on the forum give you advice on this topic.

[Preston Singletary]

I'm sure that few will agree with me but I feel that the concept of "balancing" the rod and reel is alot of hogwash. How can a static balance point even be established in a dynamic system where this balance point perforce changes with every additional foot of line beyond the rod tip? Certainly one wouldn't want to match a Hardy Marquis Salmon 2 with a 4-weight rod, but the choice of reels should be determined by the line size and backing requirements rather than any theoretically "ideal" balance point achieved with a particular rod.

I have a similarly iconoclastic view of drags. While a sophisticated disc drag system may be of some advantage when fishing for big, fast fish in salt water (talking dorado, sailfish, etc.) I've never found them to offer any particular advantage when fishing for, say, steelhead. I've landed far too many steelhead on spring-and-pawl Hardy reels like the St. Aidan, St. George and Princess to think otherwise (and none of the reels mentioned even has a palming rim).

[Colston Newton]

Preston: I agree about fancy drags, although I haven't enough salt experience to comment when that's involved. I do believe a palming rim is a major advantage and a whole lot easier to control than a drag system.

[J Castwell]

I should mention that I usually agree with Preston on everything; this is no exception. The 'balance' thins especially. In fact, I like to use as light a reel as possible. It should have enough drag to keep from over-running when I (or a fish) pull line from it. I only caught one steelhead on a non-rim drag Medalist reel. What fun, skinned up knuckles and all.

[Gemrod]

I don't agree with anybody. What's new huh? The drag is extremely important, as well as the quality of the rod and reel. I have caught trout that the drag enabled me to play and land that most would have lost. Point being it was the quality of the drag that did the trick. Had a trout take me into backing downstream on the San Juan. Showed no signs of coming back to ME. I had to get this guy back upstream against heavy current and he didn't want to come. He kept going and I had to make a stand. Three clicks forward on the drag and I had him. I smoooothly stopped him...and slowly over time returned him to the boat....the drag slipping when it needed to just like on a spinning reel.

The reel IMO ought to balance fairly close. Hold the rod grip where you like to hold the rod to fish. Make a pencil mark on the cork grip between where the index finger and the high sign finger meet and touch the rod. Cut a plastic water bottle...the simple 12-16 oz kind....in half and use either half. Punch a hole in each side of it with a paper punch. Place the rod grip on a book end...I mean a metal one where there is only a thin edge of metal to balance the rod on. Place the rod grip on the book end right on the pencil mark. Tie a string about 6" long through one hole then the other in the plastic cup. Hang this cup right in the center of the reel seat. Now fill with pennies till the rod balances. This is the reel weight you want when it is loaded with line. So when you get balance, weigh the container with pennies in it. This will give you the approximate weight you want for a reel....well....the approximate weight "I" would want on the rod. I have a scale that will weigh in oz as well as grams and I have a postal scale as well. I am sure though that if you have no scale and took it to the post office they will weigh it for you. They have a postal scale for $34 but I much prefer the small one from Harbor Freight for around $15. No line has to be out the tip of the rod. An ounce or two off either way probably not a big deal. If you weigh the reel without line just add 1.5 ounces to allow for backing and line. You will be close enough.

Jack and others are right about fatigue...perhaps the whole arm even. My experience was I have a 11' 6wt I love. I took it to a stream with a 6 wt reel and commenced fishing. It is a mile and a half walk up to top of stream. The rod casted beautifully. But in no time at all my hand got very tired of HOLDING the rod tip up because of balance. The reel was too light for the rod....very tip heavy. This came into play while walking up stream carrying the rod.....and while fishing, and while walking back to the car. I learned by experience. I personally want a rod and reel fairly closely balanced if I set it on my finger about where the center of my grip is.

Apologize for length. Just how it happened for me.

Gemrod