Strike Indicators

[Marco]

John,
Without calculating the physics of friction between the three materials, rubber /foam/mono , I agree with your conclusion. On the other hand, considering the size of fish I usually fool, that would NOT be a problem.

Mark

[NJTroutbum]

I use natural colored Corqs indicators. The soft rubber loop sits tight on a furled leader.

[Tig]

If the legs on the rubber 'band' are left sticking out of the top of the indicator enough and the line is close enough to the other end of the indicator, then when a strike occurs it should not pull the rubber stop right out. It should only loosen up and slide up and down the line. I could see where a sharp snap of the line might pull it out but I doubt it. This can be tested in your tying room.

[Tig]

Okay! I tried it and this setup would work fine without falling apart.

[Prairieschooner]

I used to use the small thingamabobbers but they really don't stay in place very well, even with the 2nd generation "plug", plus they kink the heck out of a leader. Now I use the AirLock, all the visibility, easy adjustment, they stay in place and no leader kinks.

http://fishairlock.com

[tedshuck]

I have been using the Pat Dorsey yarn indicator system for the last couple of years and like it a lot. It is easy to set up and very easy to adjust. Here is a link that gives a good explanation of the way it works: https://troutbitten.com/2017/03/30/d...d-know-little/

I have just started using a diffrent New Zealand yarn indicator system. This is about as simple as any yarn system can be. You tie a slip knot in the leader where you want the indicator to be, insert a bit of yarn or wool, and tighten the slip knot on the bit of yarn. You can make the bit of yarn as light as you want, so it adds very little bulk or air resistance when casting. If the fish are extra wary, use less yarn. If your nymph rig is too heavy, use more yarn. If you want to move it, yank the bit of yarn out, pull the leader to remove the slip knot, tie a new slip knot where you want it, reinsert the yarn and you are good to go.

I will still use the Dorsey system with rubber bands in rougher water, but for stealthy presentations in slower water, the slip knot works better than anything else I have found.

Ted

[NJTroutbum]

The Corqs indicator is like the thingamabobber, but with a softer rubber loop the holds better. Less hard kinking on mono leaders, and none at all on furled leaders.

[Paddy80701]

​I think if you use the right size elastic cord , it will not pull out. I've never lost one.

[johnstoeckel]

After initially starting this thread, I have watched numerous videos on nymphing and discovered dozens opinions on setups. Kelly Galloup is the only one who puts a split shot on the bottom of the rig (where legal) and did a good job of explaining his logic. However, he is the only one, I saw, who uses that method. He also had good reasoning for using the perfection loop for droppers. Most of the videos used a Thingamabob (Sp) for the indicator, if at all. In any case, nymph fishing seems to be very effective and logical when there is not a good hatch. I am just now getting serious about giving it a try this Spring. Of course, I have asked for and will consider any advice. Thanks to those already responding.

Obviously you're getting lots of varying opinions on this one. I've tried lots of different nymphing methods over 40 years of so of fly fishing and I still use a number of different systems.

I probably do 80% of my nymphing in a tightline, euro style. For this style, I just use a bright section of mono ("sighter") tied into my leader. This method is simple IMO. If you couple it with a large tungsten bead nymph you have a simple, direct system for casting and strike detection (no "hinge" in the system for floating indicator or added shot). But you need to get relatively close and keep casts and drifts short (I'd say 20'-30' including rod).

When I need a longer cast or drift to reach fish, I use a floating indicator ("suspender"). I carry and use several different types of indicators which I choose depending on conditions (and to a degree just how I feel at the moment). I have poly macrame yarn and both tubing (New Zealand style) and ortho rubber bands (Dorsey stye). I also have Thingamabobbers, several smaller foam indicators and, of course, large dry flies for dry / dropper use.

As for weighting flies / leaders, I've also used a variety of systems for rigging flies and weighting. I've rigged flies "in-line" and on tags. I've weighted flies (large tungsten beads) and with shot on the tippet (above, below and between flies).

My key suggestion is that there is no single, perfect system for all conditions. If you want to be successful nymph fishing in a variety of conditions, you should learn and try a variety of systems. Understand the pros / cons of each and what conditions they are best suited for.

[jcampbell]

Good advice John! Since posting I have read articles and listened to numerous methods and opinions and have come to one conclusion. Be prepared to use the method appropriate for the water you are fishing until finding the ones that work. I think I am now familiar with all the possible options currently being used and I thank all for the responses in this forum. I think I'll start the season with a straight line, sighter and dropper for the top nymph. I also plan to start with a splitshot on the tail end of the tippet and see how that goes. I still have pretty good feel for a take without watching a bobber. We'll see. I'll post my success or fail later this spring. That being said, I hope others will continue to post their methods and opinions. All have been informative and helpful. Thanks!