I use those Palsa (or similar) stick-on ones shaped like an 8. Stick two together sticky to sticky. Insert in the loop to loop connector at the top of the leader, or in a granny loop if I need it somewhere else. Reusable, cheap, effective. Been doing it that way for 20 years and see no reason to change. Have tried other types, always go back.
I've gone through the same progression as you apparently. I've used the Thingamabobbers for years and really wanted those to be the long sought "perfect indicator", but I've always had problems with them slipping on finer tippet. I've never cared for any of the homemade solutions to that problem and the built in peg they came out with is inelegant at best. About a year or so ago I heard about and ordered some Floatmaster indicators and have found those to be just about ideal. Easy to take on and off, easy to adjust (which is of critical importance to me as well), light and buoyant. I use the white ones in the smallest size I can get away with. Their web site is a bit confusing now that they've apparently introduced an inline indicator as well. The kind I'm talking about is the original design where you draw a small piece of surgical tubing down through the hole in the indicator, leading to more of a right angle presentation instead of the straight line. http://www.floatmasterco.net/instructions.html http://www.bestgear.com/floatmasterstrikeindicators
I just recently ordered one the NZ kits as well, as those sound intriguing too, but haven't had the opportunity to try one on the water yet.
Fish Pimp strike indicators are my favorites for the variety of flyfishing (mostly warmwater species) I do.
http://www.fishpimpco.com/product/fish-pimp-original/
David Merical
St. Louis, MO
Have tried them all, but Thingamabobbers are still the best on the market. Not sure why there are so many complaints about kinked leaders. You folks aren't using expensive tapered leaders for nymphing, are you? I use them almost exclusively and a leader might have to be changed after a couple of days of fishing, but they are mostly just straight leader material so not really much of an issue. For light presentations, shallow drops, and very small leaders, Palsas work best for me.
Those Airlock variants look interesting but will be heavier than a Thingamabobber, and those wrap around screw-type of indicators still kink the leader if that is your worry. There is newish indicator on the market that has a similar set-up called the "Screw Ball Indicator" which is nice on small tippets, and easily adjustable. They are a bit heavy, though, and I'm still not sure I like them any better than a Thingamabobber.
Take a look at these from "Float Master". They are the only indicator I've used for the last 7 years. They come in a variety of sizes and colors to fit any and all conditions, don't kink your line and are easily adjustable for depth, even with a knotted leader. The best news for me is they are impossible to throw off your line. The only ones I've lost have been because I've hopelessly tangles a leader in a tree or I've given it away to someone to try.
Check them out and I think you'll be pleased with the results.
http://floatmasterco.net/
Joe Bertolini
I have used a variety of indicators. Lately, Thingamabobbers have worked well for me. The Airlock indicators look promising to me but I have not used them yet.
http://www.fishairlock.com/
I just purchased the new Zealand kit and so far have been pleased with the results.
I have used Thingamabobbers for years and leader kink has never been an issue as it does no damage to the leader and a good tug for 30 seconds or so takes care of the kink. I discovered the glow-in-the-dark Thingamabobber years ago and use them exclusively - not for their glow-in-the-dark properties but because they usually look about the same color as foam or other 'stuff' in the surface film, and I can see them well in most situations. When there is glare on the water I switch to a black model. I also don't use the larger sizes I usually stick with the x-small for smaller creeks and the small size for anything else.
I'll give my report about the NZ indicator after putting it through the paces during my winter fishing.
Tight Lines,
Kelly.
"There will be days when the fishing is better than one's most optimistic forecast, others when it is far worse. Either is a gain over just staying home."
Roderick Haig-Brown, "Fisherman's Spring"
Have you tried the new Thingamabobber with the little spike that keeps the tippit from sliding.
Not all the fly shops have ordered them but they have been around for some time now.
So far, I use 3 different types of strike Indicators
1. New Zealand (NZ) Strike Indicator system
2. Dry and Dropper system
3. Yarn Slip Knot System
I've used the NZ Strike Indicator system and it has worked very well. It is easy to adjust, but getting the right amount of wool takes some time to experiment. Once you get it right, it works very good. Also, the NZ system is very good when you are dealing with water sheds that continuously change substrate depth within feet/yards. It definitely is part of my arsenal.
I also still use the dry and dropper method, as well as the slip knot method. The dry and dropper method is the most sensitive, but takes longer to adjust for depth (i.e. put on a new tippet between the dry and dropper). Still, this is my favorite since you can catch fish on the indicator.
The slip knot method is an old stand by and has worked for years. It takes a little longer to adjust for depth, but does well with adding a lot of split shot to get your flies deeper. It does leave kinks in the leader.
Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, and I use them to fish different types of water (i.e. still, riffles, deep runs, etc.).
Vinny
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