Thanks.... I like these kind of build it myself type projects, so this is right up my alley.
and thanks to everyone for the comments... I realized after posting this question seems to get asked once every 6 months or so.
Thanks.... I like these kind of build it myself type projects, so this is right up my alley.
and thanks to everyone for the comments... I realized after posting this question seems to get asked once every 6 months or so.
Excuse the artwork, this is a pencil sketch of a fine piece of redneck engineering from the Tennessee River area of north Alabama. The anchor I remember was probably stainless steel pipe but it was 2" pipe with weight in the center and the ends welded closed. The end of the pipe digs into the bottom or under rocks, but if you can go upsteam it will pull free. I have been planning to make one out of pvc but do not have a rod for the top.
Redneck anchor.jpg
Want to hear God laugh? Tell him Your plans!!!
Hi jesse
You stated the critical words that make this design a question for me for pontoons on a flowing river--"if you can go upsteam it will pull free". In many cases I am just not able to go up stream. There is a similar concept, using a sliding rod, commericially available in the Richter Anchor - http://www.richteranchors.com/products/ They sure look like they would hold well.
Last edited by Max; 04-09-2010 at 01:10 AM. Reason: word change
Max
You already have an anchor that you use with your Kayak, so why don't you just use that one? The Homemade one with the bolt through it look like I would try my best to puncture my inflatable pontoon. It wouldn't be easy but I could probably do it.
One style not mentioned and it is especially useful if weight is a concern. I have seen some that are just a canvas type bag. You fill it with gravel at your launch site and when you are done you dump it out right where you took it from. Light weight, easy to pack, probably not the best for much moving water but useful on lakes with a little breeze when you want to stay in one place. I use one of the smaller mushroom type anchors that is about 8 pounds if I remember right on my small Outcast pontoon. The little two or three pound ones would be fine for packing in and using a tube, but something bigger I just feel better about a little more weight even if it isn't as convenient.
Exactly why I selected them, there was also a warning earlier about anchoring in fast water. But you need to be able to abandon an anchor because most are capable of be lodged under a log, rock, etc., A old fisherman in the Muscle Shoals, AL are told me he found countless anchors below Wilson Dam during an extreme low water period, where fisherman had cut the anchor rope when turbine generators were added on line without warning.Originally Posted by Max
Want to hear God laugh? Tell him Your plans!!!
The third jerk. A jerk on one end of a rod hoping for a jerk on the other end of the rod. But might have to jerk his anchor loose from the bottom.
Drill a hole in the outside bottom of your mushroom anchor in the center, tap if you have to....and install an eyebolt. Solidly hook a couple of feet of fairly heavy chain to the new bottom installed eyebolt..... and then connect your rope to the end of the chain.
Now......a few links up the chain from the bottom eyebolt, insert a nylon tyrap of your choice and tyrap the chain to the mushroom anchors original "top" eyebolt. Now your anchor is set to toe from the top orininal connection point and anchor as normal.
But when it hangs up....jerk hard and break the nylon tyrap. NOW your rope and chain are pulling from the "bottom" of the anchor and should pull it loose.
The chain helps the anchor tip over when you throw it a ways out.....and then give a pull on the rope and let go so the chain helps the mushroom anchor tip over. Or drop the anchor and then troll or move your craft 15' or so, and tug and let go to tip over the anchor so it will grab something on the bottom. Weight of the chain should help the mushroom anchor tip over and grab. When it won't come loose, jerk hard to break the tyrap and tug on the anchor rope, which is now connected to the BOTTOM of the anchor.
Make any sense?
Jim
Hextall,
You will love that toon it is a sweet boat. I use a twelve pound pyramid on that same boat and at times i think it is too light to keep you stationary in some types of moving water so going a bit bigger might not be a bad idea. Also i think that a chain anchor could be nice since controling your drift is more usefull at times. rember you should always have a good sharp knife with you when ever using any type of anchor in moving water and dont tie a knot at the end of your anchor line.
Now that is a good tip! makes perfect sense.
Thanks
Dan
I hope I don't need it but it should definitely work.
Want to hear God laugh? Tell him Your plans!!!
I have a Scadden Madison River, great boat. I do lots of chironomid fishing in lakes, and need to keep the boat still in high winds.
I use a 12 lb. Spike anchor off the trolley, and a 8 lb mushroom anchor that I can toss off the back deck. Drop the trolley anchor first, let the wind swing you around, then drop the mushroom, then tighten the trolley.
I also keep a fabric sea anchor (looks and works like a wind sock) on the back deck. It can put you at perfect trolling speed for leeches and streamers in high winds. There's a separate strap that hooks to the hole in the outlet end -- pull the strap, the sea anchor collapses, and you are on your way.
For my float tube, which is not affected nearly as much by the wind, I use a 3 lb folding anchor like Char mentioned.
DANBOB
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