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Thread: Thread differences

  1. #11

    Default

    Thanks for the replies. You've definately answered my questions.
    Dead fish don't make reel music.

  2. #12
    Bass_Bug Guest

    Default

    The biggest question is what patterns are you tying? If you're tying only for salt water for instance, don't waste your money on anything smaller then 3/0. If your only tying for trout, 6/0 and down like the others said. Bass and/or pike? at least 3/0 on the small end of the scale is average.

    I have a couple spools of 8/0 that were given to me and will likely dry rot before I use it up. I only use 6/0 if I absolutely have to. I just don't tie many patterns that small. For most of my tying I use 3/0, Kevlar and GSP(for spinning hair).

    Bottom line, use whatever the pattern calls for. Most patterns use a thread size that the pattern inventor thought was right. But as the pattern gets smaller or larger to fit your local water the thread can get smaller or larger as well.

  3. #13

    Default My regular favorites

    I've tried several types of thread: Uni, GSP, Kevlar, and several Danville's

    The Uni threads I've tried have no stretch, so they break without warning when you reach their maximum weight rating. They also don't whip finish as easily as others. If you're new to tying, these may be frustrating.

    I do a lot of deer hair bugs. Kevlar is very strong, but it cuts hairs too easily. I think it's unnecessarily strong. It doesn't seem to stay knotted when you're finished tying as I recall (It's been a while since I've used it though)

    GSP has one good quality: Very VERY strong! Bad qualities: Way more slippery than necessary, and hard to cut (you have to keep tension on it or it slips through the scissors). Yeah I know, Chris Helm loves it, but I hate it. Yes the deer hair spins well, but you have to constantly apply super glue to make sure it STOPS spinning once the hair is in position. If you love to spend 2 hrs tying 1 fly, give it a try. It isn't cheap either ($3 to $4 for ONLY 50 yds). If you know how to spin hair properly you don't need ultra slippery thread.

    This brings us to Danville Nylon. I love it. It is so versatile. I prefer waxed because it whip finishes very well. Because it's nylon, it stretches before breaking, so you can get a feel for when you're getting close to that breaking point.

    Danville Flat Waxed Nylon, 210 denier, works very well for spinning (but not OVER spinning) deer hair. Plus it will stay put till you're done tying a bug. Then you trim the belly of the bug flat and apply superglue in a line where the hook shank is. One application of super glue at the end, instead of 12 times during tying.

    I use flymaster and flymaster plus (both waxed) in 70, 140, and 210 denier, on all other flies with very satisfactory results.

    I don't use head cement on them either (after watching a Doug Swisher video on attractors) Just do 2 or three whip finishes (if you do it by hand, you can do them all faster than you can open a bottle of cement).

    Since they are waxed they repel water, so you get some added protection against hook rust.

    I think the problem most tyers have is that they think they have to tie flies extremely tight. This actually is counter productive as it can damage the materials and make them break and fall out later (ESPECIALLY deer hair).

    AK Best visited our club here in Nebraska and said 2 or 3 snug wraps of thread per material as you tie is plenty. This is one of my best lessons. Try tying a fly this way and then when you're finished, try pulling any of the materials out. They will probably rip or break before they slide out. Any more than that is overkill and money down the drain.

    I have bass bugs in my boxes that I tied several seasons ago, that are still holding up from these methods, though they are fish-chewed and faded.

    I recommend to everyone to read AK Best's book 'Production Fly Tying'.
    Oddly enough he does not discuss thread types, but if you look at the photos of his tying bench and the close-ups of his bobbins, you will see many spools of waxed Danville threads. (No black spools of Uni-threads)

    He is one of the most famous tyers in the world. He ties THOUSANDS of DOZENS of flies each year. He is an expert in fly tying efficiency.

    I think many of these threads are just to get people to spend more money.

    If they come out with something 2 times stronger than GSP, everyone will think they need that one next, even if it costs $6 per spool.

    If I could only have one style of thread, it would probably be Waxed Flymaster+ 140 denier. I think I could make it work for all the warm water flies I tie from nymphs to bugs from size 14 and larger if I had to. If I did mostly trout fishing, I'd say Flymaster 6/0 (70 denier) for smaller stuff.

    Spend more money on fly line, less on thread.

    I recommend you buy 1 spool of black thread of each major brand/type, then tie them side by side and see what you like. Then go with that. Some tyers love Uni's, GSP etc. and some don't. Just don't buy too many of one kind, till you know what you like.

    Sorry for the 'Testament', but I wish someone explained this stuff to me before I spent so much money on threads.

    Bill
    Last edited by lepomac; 01-25-2010 at 10:33 PM. Reason: Typos
    NEVER sneeze into your fly box!


    .

  4. #14

    Default

    Thanks Bill. All advice, opinions, and experiences are appreciated.
    Dead fish don't make reel music.

  5. #15

    Default You're Welcome.

    You're quite welcome. My pleasure. I love helping other fly fishermen. Especially the ones who haven't even discovered fly fishing yet.

    Bill
    NEVER sneeze into your fly box!


    .

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