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Thread: recessed hood

  1. #1
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    Default recessed hood

    I hope this is not too confusing.
    I bought a Pac Bay Uplocking Reel Seat and it has a recessed hood to accept the foot of the fly reel. Do I need to inlet the first cork ring to accept the hood or can I glue it to the insert and butt it up against the first cork ring of the handle? It was suggested that some builders do just that--instead of inletting the first cork ring they just just put the hood against it.

  2. #2
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    Default

    You can buy cork handles that have the inlet already cut into it or a recessed ring if you are turning your own. There are a couple of different types and sizes based on whether it is a A-5 type or a U-7/8/9 type. I would personally recess it if you can. It looks better that way IMO, but the U-7 type can be butted up against a grip and still look OK.
    It is all about what you think looks good in this case. It really won't mess up your performance.
    Better to be an active environmentalist than and environmental activist.

    FFMIRSWTNBOF
    (Full Fledged Member in Raunchy Standing-Within The NBOF)

  3. #3
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    Default

    I would also inlet the hood into the first ring. If you've never done it, here's how I do when I don't have a pre-inletted grip.

    NOTE: THIS IS ALL DONE DRY FITTING. HOLD OFF ON THE EPOXY.

    1. Ream the grip to fit properly on the blank in its final location.

    2. Build up the blank with tape for the reel seat in the usual method.

    3. Assemble the complete reel seat and slide it up against the cork grip.

    4. Using a sharp pencil, trace the outline of the hood on the cork ring, then remove the grip from the blank.

    5. Using a Dremel with a sandpaper drum on it, or other rotary grinding tool, begin removing cork until you get close to the pencil line, checking the depth as you go along as well. DO NOT REMOVE THE PENCIL LINE.

    6. Once you are near the pencil line, slide the grip down the blank and check to see if the hood is close. At this point it's just fine sanding until you get the opening the right size.

    Take your time and it should be a snap for you.

    Joe
    Joe Valencic
    Life Member FFF
    Rod Builder in Chains

  4. #4
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    Default

    and #7 ... DO NO FORCE THE HOOD INTO THE CORK. Use a gentle suggestion! A little goes a long way with sanding ... more can be removed, but it cannot be replaced. <would that be #8?>
    Trouts don't live in ugly places.

    A friend is not who knows you the longest, but the one who came and never left your side.

    Don't look back, we ain't goin' that way.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Thanks, Mom!
    Joe Valencic
    Life Member FFF
    Rod Builder in Chains

  6. #6
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    Default Thanks for the help

    Thanks for the help. I'll do as instructed. I like to fashion my own handles to fit my hand.
    I'm kind of surprised you all were able to understand my question. Sometimes I get a little wordy and confusing.

    HAVE A NICE EASTER TO ALL!

  7. #7
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    Any time!! I'm a Mom, so I understand talk like that!!
    Trouts don't live in ugly places.

    A friend is not who knows you the longest, but the one who came and never left your side.

    Don't look back, we ain't goin' that way.

  8. #8
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    If it as a A5 style freeshwater reel seat, do as Joe says except do not assemble the reelseat yet. Put the hood on backwards so you can draw the outline of the hood shape on the end of the cork ring. Then take it apart, glue it up, and dremel the cork to fit. Like Betty says, the cork WILL NOT stretch, so don't force it on (guess how I learned that).

    Greg

  9. #9
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    Default Maybe I confused You/Cork Rings

    I may have not explained that I'm using cork rings to make my own handle. Does that change anything?

  10. #10
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    Well ... <scratching chin, looking towards the sky> ... nope!
    Trouts don't live in ugly places.

    A friend is not who knows you the longest, but the one who came and never left your side.

    Don't look back, we ain't goin' that way.

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