Making a sink tip line system...

[Flyrodde]

Alright, I just bought some cortland LLC-13 vinyl coated lead core line. It is rated at 13 grains per foot. I am going to try and make up a few different lengths to turn a floating line into a sinktip line quickly on the water. On the back of the package it suggests that I use "cortland braided slip-on leader loops. (splicing needles available.)"

I don't trust the slip on loops. and I don't know how I could splice a loop in the line.

Has anyone done this? Or does anyone have any suggestions?

I don't want to just make a loop in the line because the loop would be too thick to pass through the guides easily. I also don't want to use a nail knot and heavy mono for the same reason.

I suppose I could use the slip-on loops if I could glue them to the line, but I want it to be flexible and I don't have any experience with a high strength flexible glue. Any suggestions in that department?

Thanks alot, you guys always come through for me.

[kjgallaher]

I use braided loops but I make them myself out of 50# hollow core braided mono. I put two nail knots using 8-12# test mono close together on the line end of the braided loop (that is the end of the loop connector furthest from the end of the LC-13. Put a small amount of flexible cement such as flexament or pliabond on the knots only. I haven't had one come loose yet and have caught false albacore on them and they pull pretty hard!

Regards,
Keith

[tailingloop]

I make 26 to 32 foot shooting heads from LC-13 and use braided mono loops that I make my self using the instructions shown here:

http://www.danblanton.com/gettinglooped.html

This is one way to make loops and these are very strong, much stronger than any commercially available loop I have used or examined, and go through the guides just fine. I have never had a loop made this way fail, in fact I have had a couple of flylines fail before the loop did (using 10kg tippet). The double catch method is stronger and more durable that the single catch and glued method that I have seen used with every pre-made braided loop that I have examined. If I were ever to use a pre-made loop again, I would check it before every outing where the braid is inserted back into itself to form the loop. I had several pre-made loops (Orvis, Cortland, Gudebrod) fail at this juncture after a lot of use, which is why I quit using them. However I would not be afraid to use them, just make regular inspection part of your maintenance program for your gear.

If using pre made loops I think they are much more secure if the end of the braid (away from the loop) is secured with a nail knot rather than the sleeves that are often supplied. No need to glue, though you may like to coat the nail knot with pliobond or Loon Knot Sense. The nail knot by itself does not hold the loop on, it just secures the end of the braid to the line so that when the loop is under pressure, the chinese finger cuff effect comes into play and the braid grips the fly line along the entire length of the braid. Gluing the braid to the line will prevent this finger cuff effect from coming into play, eliminating the benefit of the braid and creating a weaker connection.

If you secure the end of the braid with a nail knot, you can later remove it by carefully slicing through the nail knot and any coating with an x-acto knife.

A detachable sink tip will system made from LC-13 or Rio T-8 or T-14 will not be the most beautiful casting system because the dense tip will alter the way the line unrolls. However they can add some flexibility to your floating line and can be quite useful in many situations.

[kjgallaher]

Tailingloop said more eloquently what I was trying to say in my post. I do it just as he describes and have not had one fail.

Keith

[Flyrodde]

I guess thats what I was looking for, Thank you very much.

Where do you two get your 50# braided mono line?

[tailingloop]

I have not found the braided mono carried by any of the shops that Sponsor this site.

I get it in 50ft spools from

www.bobmarriotts.com and www.flyfishingspecialties.com

It is Gudebrod Braided Butt material.

[RickB]

I've used the braided loops as described above and they work OK. Lately I have gone to whipped loops as they seem a little easier for me.

I just make a loop in the end of the line and use my fly tying bobbin and threader to make wraps around the doubled over line. First lay the threader along the loop, This adds some strength to the line to make whipping the thread easier. Make wraps covering about a half inch of the doubled thread and cut the thread. Slip the cut end through the threader and pull it through the wraps. trim the thread end (you can cut it short before you pull it through if you like so there is no tag end above the wraps. Coat the thread wraps with Pliobond or another flexible cement and you are good to go. I like this method as I can make the loops as big or small as I like, also it is easier than trying to thread the line into the braided loops (for me anyways).

I use this method for almost all my line ends with heavier lines like fly lines and lead core. No failures so far and I've been using it for 2 years now.


Rick

[kjgallaher]

I also use whipped loops on both ends of all my saltwater lines but prefer the braided connectors for the lead/tungsten core lines.
Keith

[Flyrodde]

Thanks rick, I have tried that to connect my backing to my flyline.

It was great while never getting into backing, but the connection got stuck on a salmon the first time it tried to come through the guides under tension. It just seemed to be too bulky to ride smoothly so I don't trust them anymore. Thanks for the suggestion though.

[kjgallaher]

I have been fortunate enough to see my backing go through my guides a number of times and have not had any hang-ups with the whipped loops passing through under tension. Perhaps you are making the loops too large.

Keith