hi again, just want to know how to glue my handles together without being able to feel the glue between each piece of cork; also what glue should i be using?
hi again, just want to know how to glue my handles together without being able to feel the glue between each piece of cork; also what glue should i be using?
xp_erienced,
Here's the fixture I made to glue up my handles.
Not shown is the 1/4" rod I use to keep all the rings centered until the entire stack is compressed. (I remove the center rod so it doesn't get glued in place). I use Titebond III which is a water resistant glue. Once the glue dries overnight, I put the stack on a mandrel and turn the handle on my lathe (you don't feel anything between the cork rings after sanding, because the cork has been compressed, thus squeezing out excess glue). This stack was for a spinning rod, so you can see the washer separating the fore and rear grips. This just saved time from doing two glue sessions, as I only made one press.
If you wish to glue and shape the grip on the blank, here are a couple of tutorials:
http://www.littlemissouriflyfishing.com/customrods.html
http://globalflyfisher.com/staff/lewis/grips/
Personally, I prefer to make the grip separately and ream it to fit the blank. If I mess up I don't have to scrape everything off the blank.
Joe
Joe Valencic
Life Member FFF
Rod Builder in Chains
Here's a good one from FAOL.
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/begin/g ... part5.html
This kind of glue has been around a long time. I built rod grips with Herter's Plasto Resin glue over 40 years ago. They are still solid. Squeeze the rings together; wip off excess with a wet rag. You gotta love a water based product.
2 part epoxy has worked for me, too. I used it because it was what I had. Though the excess is wiped off, the job does not have to be perfect. Since the grip is sanded into a final shape after it dries, excess glue that drys on the surface is not a problem.
Bear742
Buy a tube of Duco Cement at any hardware store. Cost about a buck. It dries clear, excess sands off easily, and it never comes apart.
I don't build rods any more, but have done dozens over the years. Good stuff.
Tight Loops,
Tony
I like Titebond II for glueing cork. It is easy to work with, waterproof and doesn't leave ridges as the cork wears. Some adhesives, such as epoxy are quite dense when cured. If the adhesive is more dense than the surounding cork the glue joint wears at a slower rate. This results in the high spots, or ridges in the handle.
You can easily remove them, a light sanding will knock off the high spots and return the smooth feel. A small sanding block will help insure you are only hitting the high spots. I use a strip of sand paper glues to a paint stir stick with spray on adhesive. Sanding is an easy job in a lathe, but you may need to remove guides to mount the rod in the lathe.
It is also possible to sand it freehand. To sand by hand I take long over lapping strokes while rotating the handle a 1/4 turn. Each stroke takes the path of a long spiral the full length of the handle. After several revolutions I reverse the direction to get even coverage. I count the strokes to make sure I get even coverage.
I have heard that steaming the cork over a tea kettle will help raise low spots, I can't vouch for this but it seems worth a try.
thanks a bunch guys, the tightbond II works awsome.
Thanks for the information. Going one step further, I read about custom fitting the grip size and shape using a wooden dowell and play-do. Has anyone used that method and do you have any tips; I haven't custom build a handle before.
I've used 2 part epoxy as well with good results, but it can make reaming out the inside of the grip a pain as the glue dries very hard.Originally Posted by Bear742
Erik
What sort of method do you use to ream the cork grip Eric?
Cheers,
MontanaMoose
MM,
I use rat tail files.
Erik