patagonia info

[jb789]

hello everyone,

i'm new to the forum, though have been following it for a while. have enjoyed it and learned much.

i,m planning an extended trip to patagonia (dec-feb 0. basically a trout bum affair as i have always liked exploring. i hope to rent a van, camp a bit, and fish around coyhaique in chile, and then esquel, san martin/junin, and perhaps barilochie.

my question;
is there anyone that has been down and fished other than with a lodge. i'm trying to get as much local knowledge as possible on such things as rivers and streams you like, local guides (the ones i have found on the web charge $350/day for public water, which seems a little high ) fly shops, and car rental/ boarder crossing, ect. really, just anything that might help me aviod the pitfalls i know are awaiting.

or, perhaps you could point me in the direction of someone who might know.

thanks, hope y'all can help. jb

[SilverMallard]

Renting a vehicle can be very difficult.

If you're going for fly-fishing, Bariloche is out of the way and more expensive of a hangout than some of the smaller towns closer to great water.

If I were you, I would be thinking instead about hiring a local sherpa with a 4x4 SUV or van. But you need to realize that area is VERY remote and there are those who would prey upon freelance touristas...especially along the border and in Chile. I would try to find an expat who has been there for a few years if I were going to do what you want to do. I would CERTAINLY make contact with a bunch of expats and try to arrange some support network in advance. They will keep you out of trouble. This is going to sound racist, but I would avoid any of the "Indians" in Patagonia in terms of guides/sherpa types. And I would invest in Rosetta Stone and make sure my Spanish was up to snuff for independent living in that society. And do NOT carry much cash! Look poor, act poor, and try to blend. And stay out of the touristy restaurants and hotels. They are WAY more expensive than they need to be.

On the sherpa thing, you need to realize that unemployment in that region runs about 60%. A "good" job in the Esquel area pays about the equivalent of $500 (US) per month and anyone finding such employment would kill to keep it. I think you could pay someone about $300-400/mo to be your personal chauffeur, guide, and translator for the entire time. That's $900-1200 for your whole trip. And it would be money WELL spent if you find the right person. For me, they would have to be bilingual (not that rare), know the area and fish quite a bit, and not be an Indian. Then I would hope to find an expat or good friend of an expat. The socio-ethnic group I would be looking to best infiltrate would be the ranchers. They are good folks who appreciate a strong handshake, dependability, hard work, and so forth. And they know the land and rivers. And they love the outdoors and own the right kinds of vehicles and stuff. But be aware that the gauchos still duel for sport with knives...big knives! So mind your manners.

[Rawthumb]

The only place that it is legal for a gringo to drive a car as a tourist is in the City of Buenos Aires. The city is a federal enclave, similar to the District of Columbia, and is distinct from the province of Buenos Aires province to the south of the city. So you will have to figure out some method transportation beyond B.A. There are van services that act like taxis between B.A. and other cities, but it would be expensive if you were all alone.

Patagonia is a considerable distance from the city of B.A., and although there are trout streams north of the heart of Patagonia over toward the Andes, there aren't any that I know of near the city. There is El Dorado fishing north of the city of B.A.

The commercial airlines have modern, clean planes, and the aviation industry there strikes me as being better than many places. I would am more comfortable flying around Argentina than I would be in Kamchatka.

There is a fishing shop in Buenos Aires called El Pescador, which is not far from where Paraguay Ave crosses the 9th of July Ave (Avenida de Nueve de Julio). They had a float trip on the Malleo (pronounced My-shay-o in Argentina and is a well known trout fishing destination) which was a rafting and tent trip for about $150/day. I don't know what it costs now, but I would find someone fluent in Spanish and have them call the shop in B.A.

[Steve Wright]

Spent several weeks this past Feb. & March ;Bariloche,Esquel,& Junin........rented car & did very similar to what your describing...........NO PROBLEM !!

[Flyboy@ak]

I spent three weeks in Chile this last October/November freelancing my fishing, although I did hire a guide for a few days out of Coyhoquie to get me started. Rented a real nice extended cab truck with heavy duty tires, and bed cover out of Coyhoquie. Went as far as the Cochrane to the south and Futlalafu to the North. Excellent trip, no worries or even a sense of danger or unfriendlies. You really should have some command of Spanish, as even in Coyhoquie there are very few who speak much English. My truck rental was my biggest expense, about $50/day US with insurance. Fuel is expense, and roads are rough and slow.

[Rawthumb]

Spent several weeks this past Feb. & March ;Bariloche,Esquel,& Junin........rented car & did very similar to what your describing...........NO PROBLEM !!

I was told on multiple occasions that a tourist could not rent a car and drive outside of the City of B.A. It would save us a lot of trouble on our trips to be able to drive ourselves, and I am likely heading back on a hunting trip in July. Did you just rent the car in B.A. and drive out of town? Rent it elsewhere?

We have been through a number of police checkpoints while driving through various towns in Argentina, and in light of what we were told, we were a little hesitant to take the chance of becoming the only gringos in a country jailhouse in Argentina.

[Steve Wright]

We flew into Santiago Chile & then onto Bariloche where we rented the car.We did this to avoid B A ( international airport is a long distance to domestic airport...plus Lan Airlines is not prone to strikes,etc. as Aerolineas which we experienced last yr. on trip to Tierra del Fuego......some travel insurance companies exclude aerolineas for this reason !! ) .Also, this allowed our bags to get checked to final destination

All they check for at the checkpoints is headlights & view the rental car papers/documentation....points closer to Chile border are usually more serious & include military &/or local police,BUT NO PROBLEM !!! The two countries are not fond of each other.
We had " international driver's license" , but never showed it nor was asked for it; they know fisherman ...profiling ???? If you acted like you couldn't understand Spanish ;they motion you thru to avoid any complications for them ?
I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND DRIVING IN BA

[SilverMallard]

Vehicle rentals must be getting easier lately out in Patagonia. My info is a couple of years old, but options were very limited and method of payment and such could be tricky. Then again, Rio Negro isn't Patagonia! And Bariloche is in Rio Negro. Gas is much cheaper in Patagonia than in the rest of Argentina, btw. It is highly subsidized within the province.

It truly is a wonderful place and the few people you meet in Patagonia are generally very hospitable folks. Rio Negro is very similar, but more touristy and cosmopolitan. But business is rough and tumble down there from an ethical and legal perspective. Most gringos wouldn't even notice. They just pay exhorbitant rates for touristy stuff and that's that. If all goes well, no problemo. But if you should encounter some sort of snag somewhere along the way, things can get messy fast unless you a) know what you're dealing with and b) have a few key phone numbers and names tucked inside your wallet.

[Rocketfish]

Patagonia is the Southern part of Argentina, South of the Rio Colorado (Colorado river).
Holds five provinces, which are Neuqu?n, Rio Negro, Chubut, Santa Cruz and the island of Tierra del Fuego.
Bariloche is in Rio Negro province.
There are excellent rivers and lakes in the five provinces. However, the provinces of Neuqu?n, Rio Negro and Chubut has more quantity of spots where to cast a fly.
Many guides and outfitters operate the entire region and is not possible to say thet one area is better that the other. Just different and all good.
You can find remote, unspoiled and uncrowded streams, rivers, ponds and lakes everywhere. Just you have to have the knowledge as everywhere (experience in fact) or a good guide. Is like going to Alaska without experience.
Many guides are really good, and of course other are not, like everywhere.
You have many rent-a-car offices in Bariloche and also in San Mar?n or Esquel.

Hope this helps

Rocketfish
Argentina

www.flyfishingexpeditions.com
www.goldendorado.com

[Steve Wright]

Glad someone corrected Silvermallard...............good & accurate information is important as well as current info