Zap-a-gap Leader connection
Does anybody use the Zap-A-Gap leader connection?
I read about it in Fly Fishing magazine about july 2003 I think and have been using it ever since. I like it and it's totally smooth no bumpy knot and it seals the end of the line so it doesn't tend to sink.
I recently went to a presentation by Dave Whitlock and he says that's all he uses, and i plan to try it for fresh water. What's your expereince with it been?
Are you guys talking about simply inserting the tippet into the flyline and using ZAp-a-Gap to keep it there?
I know a guy who does that and says he's never had one pull out, but I've never had enough faith in it to give it a try.
Yup, Colston, that's the one. Whitlock swears he catches more bass, especially in heavy weeds, with the zapagap connection. Uses a tapered knotless leader, but adds tippet as necessary. I'm with you, though--I haven't had the nerve to try it.
I've used them for years on 3-4-5 weight lines fishing for trout with 6x thru 4x tippets.
Only once did I have a failure, and that was trying to break a leader from a fly hooked it a tree. The leader had wrapped around a stout branch, well up into the heavier mono and was out of my reach. I was trying to break it off and was pulling hard, a lot harder than any trout. I think the line/leader joint may have actually caught on some bark and stripped the leader out.
Since then I make sure to roughen the leader butt with sand paper and haven't had any more problems.
Only downside to them is they are hard to do stream side, I haven't found a super glue bottle that I would trust keeping in my vest or a way to strip the flyline coating w/o acetone.
I have had great luck with it. It is much much stronger than the thin end of your tapered leader and much stronger than the 5x or smaller tippet. I have never tested it on anything heavier as 5wt is the largest I fish with, but so far no failures.
For those that don't know how.
The way I do it is:
First work a "Needle from a needle nail knot tool" or sewing machine needle into the end of the fly line about 1/2 inch and poke it out through the side of the line at about 30 degree angle.
Next: VERY IMPORTANT STEP. Using about 180 grit or medium grit samdpaper, roughen about a 3/4 inch section of the tapered leader about 5 inches below the knot that comes on the leader, (go all around) DO NOT REMOVE THE KNOT YET.
Next: Thread the thin end of the leader into the eye of the needle a couple of inches. Then pull it through the tip of the fly line. Pull it almost all the way but stop right after the roughend portion goes through the fly line. What you have at this point is the fly line with the leader coming out of the center of the line with a small stub of leader sticking out of the side of the line with the knot on the end of the leader.
Next: Put a couple of drops of Zap-A-Gap cover the roughened area. (and the article I read recommended only this brand because it tends to be a little thicker than other ca glues)Then holding the knot on the leader and the tip of the fly line in that last 1/2 inch, quickly and smoothly pull the leader till the rough area with the adhesive on is embeded into the tip of the fly line. This may take a little practice, so try it a couple of times before you apply the glue to get the feel.
The Final Step. Clip the end of the leader whith the knot as closely to the leader as possible but don't damage the coating on the fly line. After doing this immediatly streach the leader and fly line slightly to embed any remaining leader tag back into the fly line and to remove any slight bend that may happen. I always put a small dot of glue onto the hole to completely seal everything.
Let sit for about an hour as suggested and you will have a very secure connection.
That's it I think it's a great connection if you dont change leaders often. I usually use 5x leaders and various tippet sizes depending on flies. The advantages I think this connection has is
1. totally smooth connection goes through guides easily.
2. Never gets grass or algea hung on knots.
3. since the end of the line is sealed the tips don't tend to get waterlogged and sink.
4. Tends to cast better because you don't have the extra weight at the end of the line.
Give it a try it's easier than it sounds and it is very worth it.
------------------
Be the heron!
Mike
I've been using it on my 3,4 & 5 for the second year and now on my 2 this year. No problems. I like it as I use mostly 8' rods and at least 9' leaders. No problem casting the connection out thru the guides.
Donald
I have used it for about 5 years now with no problems on 2,4,and 6wt lines. as I was taught by Leon Chandler was to remove about 1/2 in off the end coating of the fly line (with nail polish remover till soft enough to scrape with finger nail about in 1 or 2 min )leaving the core you can then place butt end into core (3/4in)just like a braided connector and super glue in place after leader wears out or gets to short I then cut leader about 8in from flyline and tie a small loop knot in the end and add leaders from there
Mike
[This message has been edited by Mike G (edited 04 June 2005).]
I have tried them and I still use a nail needle knot.
I have seen a few of the Zap-A-Gap connections let go at the wrong times. If you do use them take the time to do them right or you to can have a problem with that splice. Also make darn sure to rough up the leader butt before shoving it into the fly line. This will help hold it better.
If you like the nail needle knot you can get a real smooth transfer by covering the knot with Barge cement. I have been using this one for many years and have never had one let go. It also comes through weeds and moss just as good as anyother type of connection. Ron
[This message has been edited by RonMT (edited 05 June 2005).]
Friends:
This Tiemco tool makes doing the leader attachment much easier:
[url=http://www.tiemco.co.jp/english/products/fly_prod/accessories/sls.htm:a045d]http://www.tiemco.co.jp/english/products/fly_prod/accessories/sls.htm[/url:a045d]
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