REEL Confused - SALTWATER

[acorbin01]

I am interested in knowing what FAOL members consider as ESSENTIAL components or characteristics of a decent saltwater reel. I plan to do a little bonefishing, but I need a new reel. I don't want to waste my money. There are so many reel components and materials that I find myself confused. Manufactures display many claims such as the following:

Disc Drags
Cork Disc Drags
Teflon & Cork Disc Drags
Conical Disc Drags
Click Pawl Disc Drags
Spring Disc Drags
Graphite/Composite Disc Drags
Offset disc drag
Advanced space-age disc drag system

Brass gearing
Stainless steel one way roller bearing
Oil-impregnated bronze bushings

Cast-aluminum frame
Machined 6082 marine alloy aluminum
Machined bar stock 6262 T6 aluminum

Titanium anodized finish
Gold anodized finish

As you can see there is a lot being said!?!? What are the basic characteristics needed in a reel for saltwater on a species like Bonefish?

Thanks,
ac01

[DickM]

acorbin01,
It?s best to keep it simple.
Cork disk drags have been around the longest and for good reason. They are simple and they work.
One thing you did not mention is backing capacity. I would suggest 150 to 200 yards of 30 pound Saltwater Micron for a Bonefish reel. It?s coated with Teflon and lasts almost forever. I say 30 Lb instead of 20 Lb because that is usually the breaking strength of your flyline. It will also give you more abrasion resistance.
The three big names for reels in my book are Abel, Tibor or Nautilus. Any one of which would be a great reel for the salt and would last you the rest of your life.

[dudley]

Anodization for aluminium comes in three levels
Type I..Chromic Acid anodising
Type II .. Sulfuric Acid anodising
TypeIII..Hardcoat anodising

Hardcoat is very tough stuff. Type I not so much.

I use SA system II reels. They are cheap (as SW reels go),and tough, with a good drag.
The corrosion resistance is poor though, but I live with it.

[J Castwell]

You may, or may not, be awaiting my views on this. I tend to demand certain features in a salt water reel. First and 'the' most important feature, I will not even 'use' a reel without it, is a constant drag clutch. That is one where there is 'zero' movement of the spool when the line 'first' starts to go out. I will not tolerate any slight rotation. That 'free-spooling' will break tippets when the slack line in my left hand goes out and the fly line becomes tight. 'On the reel' so to speak. Next is the 'start-up' inertia. As close to zero as possible. After those, and of course, saltwater-proof etc, emotions take over. Looks and sounds.

[Jonezee]

Disc Drags
Cork Disc Drags
Teflon & Cork Disc Drags
Conical Disc Drags
Click Pawl Disc Drags
Spring Disc Drags
Graphite/Composite Disc Drags
Offset disc drag
Advanced space-age disc drag system

Brass gearing
Stainless steel one way roller bearing
Oil-impregnated bronze bushings

Cast-aluminum frame
Machined 6082 marine alloy aluminum
Machined bar stock 6262 T6 aluminum

Titanium anodized finish
Gold anodized finish

It is obvious, we have now reached the state of "Rocket Science" !!!!

Heaven help the bone fish.

[Micropteris]

JC, you said zero movement of the spool when the line goes tight so it doesn't break your tippet. Does that mean that the spool is always engaged to the drag whenever the spool turns in the direction of letting line off the reel? I think I understand what you are stating but am not sure.

[acorbin01]

It sounds like he is saying that the spool is constantly engaged, resisting rotation in either direction, until the line is affected buy the fish or the angler.

Constant Drag/Anti-reverse???


AC01

[gutbomb]

I bought a Ross Rhythm for a trip last year. It's not terribly expensive and performed well on bonefish.