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Thread: Felt Sole Repairs

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    102

    Default Felt Sole Repairs

    Now into my 3rd year with Orvis felt sole wading boots and noticing the felt is starting to separate from the soles. They do get a lot of use. Has anyone had a similar problem that was solved with home repair? Any ideas on this most appreciated. Thanks.
    Bob A/Crackleback

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    Poulsbo, Washington State, U.S.A.
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    4,387

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    I would give it a try. Not sure what I would use, actually. Probably needs to be really dry (hair dryier?) them Barge Cement,, or Shoe Goo..

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Lockport, NY U.S.A.
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    19

    Default Felt sole repair

    Replacing or re-gluing felt soles is fairly easy. You'll need a roll of duct tape, newspapers, a small wire brush, coarse sandpaper or a wood rasp, a hammer or mallet and TWO tubes of Barge cement. (One tube will not go quite far enough)

    If you are re-gluing the existing felts it's vitally important to get them completely clean. I rinse mine under the kitchen tap until all dirt is removed and the water runs clear. Then tightly stuff as much newspaper into the boots as you possibly can and set them aside for as long as it takes for them to dry COMPLETELY.

    When the felts are completely dry, clean all traces of old adhesive from the felts and the sole of your boots with a wire brush. Roughen the sole of the boot (not the felt) with the sandpaper or rasp.

    Apply a good even coat of BARGE cement to both surfaces and set them aside. When the adhesive looks dry, apply another even coat of cement to both surfaces and immediately press both surfaces together. Take your hammer and pound the bottom of the felts to get rid of any air pockets. Tightly wrap the boots with multiple layers of duct tape, wrapping from several different angles and keeping plenty of pressure on the soles at all times.

    Let the adhesive cure for at least 24 hours before removing the duct tape.

    I've had good luck with this method, the trick being the second coat of adhesive. The instructions on the tube of Barge cement call for a single coat, but I the results I got following their directions were never that great.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    Poulsbo, Washington State, U.S.A.
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    4,387

    Default

    Would you email that to the ladyfisher for inclusion in the 'Readers Cast' section please? Looks like very good information.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Middleton, ID, USA
    Posts
    148

    Default

    Thanks Grandpa ...
    I passed your info onto a co-worker I went steelheading with who blew a sole.

    I used to manage a RedWing shoe store, roughing and coating both sides with two coats of cement is definately the way to get it to stick.

    Great advice.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Waynesville, OH, USA
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    846

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    The only additional step I'd add to the process is cover your boots with clear plactic cling wrap (Saran wrap?) before you apply the duct tape. It will keep the adhesive from the duct tape off your boots but still allow you to get a good tight wrap to aid in holding the new felt to the boot sole.
    Joe Bertolini

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Thanks, all for the tips. Very much appreciated and will give it a try.
    Crackleback/Bob A

  8. #8

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    Do all that and it may last a short while, but don't expect anthing that is long lasting.

    I've tried this process a few times with only limited success. I now only buy boots where the felt is sewn to the boot.

    I think Korkers may be my next pair of boots.

  9. #9

    Default

    If a person is going to go through a fair amount of effort it seems to me you might as well replace with new felt.

    Having said that I have very successfully...after gluing... repaired loose felt by securing it with screws...either aluminum or hex headed ones similar to Chota's...of course that is making them studded,,, you can screw in lots of them or just a few depending on how many studs you want.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Wondervu, CO
    Posts
    737

    Default

    I have succesfully replace several felt soles, even removed felts to take out metal studs and re-attached the old sole for a non-studded boot.

    Here are some tip I have learned through my trial and errors...

    1. old felts can easily be removed by heating the soles. I placed the boots about 12" in front of a space heater and gave it 20 minutes or so to let the heat penetrate. The old soles peel right off with overy little residue to clean up.

    2. don't use the little brush that comes with the bttle of glue, it just takes too long to cover the area. Get a 2" wide disposable paint brush or use a stiff piece of card board.

    3. Barge cement and similar produces are a contact adhesive. You coat both sides, let it dry until it isn't tacky and press the two surfaces together for an instant bond. Clamping isn't really neaded. Pounding the soles with a mallet will insure good contact, or just walk around the house a bit. If I wanted to bind them up I wouldn't use duck tape, due to the sticky resdidue. Instead I would use 'stretch wrap', a roll of stretchy plastic film used for wrapping packages. You can get it at Home Depot or at a U-haul package store, great stuff for clamping odd shaped items.

    4. several coats of adhesive are required to fill in the porus felts before a good film of glue is left on the surface. When filling in the pores allow extra drying time (like over night) or the next coat just softens the previous coat and the stuff just soaks in further. It might take 2-3 coats to fill in new felts. An alternative that is much quicker is to use a spray on contact adhesive formulated for foam. 3M makes one that will provide a permanent bond in just 2 coats, goes on really fast. Just make sure it's the kind designed specifically for foam, it is commonly used in the upholstery trade.

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