Nymph fishing

[ftroop7]

I got to the lake yesterday around 6:00pm I tied on a beaded thorax PTN size 16. On the 3rd cast I had a gill on, within the next 20 min. I had three more on, then it was too dark so I packed it in.

This was my first experience with nymph fishing and it was an enjoyable one. Thank you Rick Z for inspiring me to get out early in the year, now I just need to get out earlier in the day so I can enjoy more fishing.

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"If it was easy anybody could do it"
Timothy S. Furey Sr.

[deathb4disco]

I would do more nymphing if I could keep from getting snagged on weeds, bushes, etc.

How do you guys stay "snag-free" (or at least snag-resistant?)

Do you use a strike indicator, popper & dropper, flies with weedguards?

[ohiotuber]

db4d,
Snag resistant?...as much as possible, accurate casting. Errant casts cost me the most flies, but luckily, I tend to be pretty accurate.
Snag-free?...this would be the same as "fish-free"...it's gonna happen if you "fish where they is"...no snags, no fish.
Mike

[deathb4disco]

Mike,

I agree completely on your "snag free" comment. Some snags are inevitable.

But accurate casting is not my problem. I'm not talking about snagging bankside vegetation but underwater stuff that you can't see.

That's why I was asking about strike indicators/poppers/dry flies used with a nymph to keep it suspended.

[ftroop7]

Is there something you could add to the fly to make it suspend?

[ohiotuber]

db4d,
I thought the "underwater type might be what you meant...unavoidable, if we're fishi' right. Look at it this way...if I was still losing $7.00+ crankbaits, I'd REALLY be cryin' the blues. Losing a few flies isn't nearly as painful.
Mike

[beadleech]

Nymph fishing is the majority of what I do after the summer heat sets in. In the early period I'll use a hopper[or popper]/dropper - but only down to about 2 -2 1/2'. If fishing deeper than that I use one of the small [5/16"] strike indicators -the type you stick a short toothpick in. I fish those down to the length of my leader which is generrally 9'. If I fish deeper than that [and I do] I do not use an indicator. Generally snags are not a problem that deep.

Most of our lakes develope a thermocline arount 15-17' in the summer. The bluegills and crappie then suspend in the 10-12' range. You might want to check that in your area because there will not be fish below this level. A good depth finder with the gain really turned up will show the thermocline.

Donald

[anglerdave]

deathb4disco

Check out Rick Z's Favorite Blue Gill Patterns here on FAOL. You'll find them in the Pan Fish Archives. He uses a bit of foam on one of his nymph patterns to help it suspend in the water column. If you are using weighted nymphs, you might want to try unweighted in the same patterns.

Another option is one that you touched on. And that is tying a short piece of mono, say 18" to the hook bend of a small popper or large dry fly.

I don't tie weed guards to any of my blue gill flys. Like tuber said losing a few flies isn't painful. That is if you are buying them. If you're tying your own the cost is minimal at best.

[Warmouth]

I really have a problem with the idea of "suspending" or "neutrally buoyant" flies. If the fly is neutrally buoyant, neither sinking nor floating, wouldn't it stay where it first lands i.e. the surface? If its used on a sinking or sink-tip line I suppose it would suspend, but only once the line is resting on the bottom. That would make strike detection nearly impossible.

Maybe some of you can help me to understand.

To keep from getting snagged I use a lot of beadhead wooly booger type flies (without the palmer hackle). Also I tie them on light wire hooks so that if I do get snagged the hook will often bend before I snap the line. That way I get my tungsten bead back.

Warmouth

[beadleech]

Warmouth - The biggest problem I find with "netural suspending" flies is that you have no idea at all where they're at. Depending on the balance of the hook & weight as compared with the "floating stuff" they'll be "somewhere" - but where is that? If they are "slow sinking" I find them only effective in fairly shallow water.

There is one way I fish that a floating fly is VERY productive. I tie a fly that is a floating dragon fly nymph and fish it on a full sinking line. After the line is completely on the bottom let the fly float up on a 2-4' leader, then SLOWLY work it back to you with many long pauses. There will be NO PROBLEM telling when you have a hit. They [bass, blugill, redear, perch] just pick it up and GO!! As a matter of fact, do not lay your rod down while fishing it - you might loose it! I find this most productive in 12' or less of water. I suspect this may be because when fish are in this depth they're probably feeding. Of course, you need a bottom clean enough for this to work. You can work it thru weeds - I've not tried wood.

Donald