Strike Indicators

[jcampbell]

What strike indicators do you use when nymphing and why that type or brand? I understand that the Euro method does not rely on a floating indicator.

[fritz]

For the past 8 years I have found myself nymphing although I will occasionally use dries, especially terrestrials. In one of Joe Humphreys' nymphing books, he states he doesn't use surface indicators because he always wants to be in contact with the feel of the line rather than use a sight indicator. There is also the claim that a landing indicator can/does spook fish. The typical leader set up for Euro nymphing is to include a length of 18-24 inches of a colored indicator mono. I also have seen indicator set ups where 6-8" strands of "leg" tying material is fastened to the butt end of the indicator material to better track the indicator that is kept kept out or barely in the water in Euro nymphing.

[Vinny]

I use different indicators for different situations:

a. For Small Stream or shallow water on bigger rivers, I use a Dry Fly and Dropper setup. An example would be a size 12 Adams and size 14 Bead Head Pheasant Tail, or
size 12 Elk Hair Caddis and size 14 olive Bead Head caddis larvae, or size 14 Griffith's Gnat and size 18 Bead Head Zebra Midge.
The length between the Dry Flly and Bead Head is from 1 foot to 2 feet.

b. For bigger rivers, I use a New Zealand yarn indicator system, but substitute Para-Post Wing material for the wool. I set up the leader with a 4 ft - 6 ft length of 4X,
then attach 24 in. of 4X - 6X with a 4 in. dropper inserted in the middle of the 24 in. section. A split shot is attached above the knot connecting the 4X to the tippet.
I put the New Zealand yarn indicator on the 4 ft - 6 ft length of 4X above the tippet.

c. For a Lake down to 2 feet or if the fish are up close to the surface, I'll use a Dry and Dropper as in (a) above.

d. For a Lake down to 10 feet, I'll use the New Zealand yarn indicator system as in (b), but use Bead Head flies. I use the same leader in (b) but lengthen the
distance between the flies to 3 ft. This allows me to fish different depths at the same time, by adjusting the indicator. An example would be first fly at 1 ft from
the surface and the other at 4 ft, or first fly at 4 ft and the other at 7 ft.

Bottom line, I use different indicators for different conditions. I'm still learning the Euro method and hope it will be included in my bag of tricks.

Vinny

[jcampbell]

After initially starting this thread, I have watched numerous videos on nymphing and discovered dozens opinions on setups. Kelly Galloup is the only one who puts a split shot on the bottom of the rig (where legal) and did a good job of explaining his logic. However, he is the only one, I saw, who uses that method. He also had good reasoning for using the perfection loop for droppers. Most of the videos used a Thingamabob (Sp) for the indicator, if at all. In any case, nymph fishing seems to be very effective and logical when there is not a good hatch. I am just now getting serious about giving it a try this Spring. Of course, I have asked for and will consider any advice. Thanks to those already responding.

[Vinny]

I've watched Kelly Galloup's video on the Drop Shot method. I have also listened to George Daniel (at a conclave) talk about the same type of rig - split shot on the bottom of the rig. He never mentioned it before, because he use to be involved in Competitions. Now, his talks include using split shot. Especially, split shot on the bottom of the rig.

Here are some videos that show similar rigs:

Deep Nymphing Strategies Fly Fishing Simple Two-Fly Setup
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ER6ntlloQVA


Deep Nymphing Strategies Fishing with Two-Flies
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJtNXog7KsI

I'll be trying Kelly Galloup's Drop Shot method this year. Darn, I have to fishing again!

Vinny

[johnstoeckel]

After initially starting this thread, I have watched numerous videos on nymphing and discovered dozens opinions on setups. Kelly Galloup is the only one who puts a split shot on the bottom of the rig (where legal) and did a good job of explaining his logic. However, he is the only one, I saw, who uses that method. He also had good reasoning for using the perfection loop for droppers. Most of the videos used a Thingamabob (Sp) for the indicator, if at all. In any case, nymph fishing seems to be very effective and logical when there is not a good hatch. I am just now getting serious about giving it a try this Spring. Of course, I have asked for and will consider any advice. Thanks to those already responding.

Obviously you're getting lots of varying opinions on this one. I've tried lots of different nymphing methods over 40 years of so of fly fishing and I still use a number of different systems.

I probably do 80% of my nymphing in a tightline, euro style. For this style, I just use a bright section of mono ("sighter") tied into my leader. This method is simple IMO. If you couple it with a large tungsten bead nymph you have a simple, direct system for casting and strike detection (no "hinge" in the system for floating indicator or added shot). But you need to get relatively close and keep casts and drifts short (I'd say 20'-30' including rod).

When I need a longer cast or drift to reach fish, I use a floating indicator ("suspender"). I carry and use several different types of indicators which I choose depending on conditions (and to a degree just how I feel at the moment). I have poly macrame yarn and both tubing (New Zealand style) and ortho rubber bands (Dorsey stye). I also have Thingamabobbers, several smaller foam indicators and, of course, large dry flies for dry / dropper use.

As for weighting flies / leaders, I've also used a variety of systems for rigging flies and weighting. I've rigged flies "in-line" and on tags. I've weighted flies (large tungsten beads) and with shot on the tippet (above, below and between flies).

My key suggestion is that there is no single, perfect system for all conditions. If you want to be successful nymph fishing in a variety of conditions, you should learn and try a variety of systems. Understand the pros / cons of each and what conditions they are best suited for.

[jcampbell]

Good advice John! Since posting I have read articles and listened to numerous methods and opinions and have come to one conclusion. Be prepared to use the method appropriate for the water you are fishing until finding the ones that work. I think I am now familiar with all the possible options currently being used and I thank all for the responses in this forum. I think I'll start the season with a straight line, sighter and dropper for the top nymph. I also plan to start with a splitshot on the tail end of the tippet and see how that goes. I still have pretty good feel for a take without watching a bobber. We'll see. I'll post my success or fail later this spring. That being said, I hope others will continue to post their methods and opinions. All have been informative and helpful. Thanks!

[fritz]

After initially starting this thread, I have watched numerous videos on nymphing and discovered dozens opinions on setups. Kelly Galloup is the only one who puts a split shot on the bottom of the rig (where legal) and did a good job of explaining his logic. However, he is the only one, I saw, who uses that method. He also had good reasoning for using the perfection loop for droppers. Most of the videos used a Thingamabob (Sp) for the indicator, if at all. In any case, nymph fishing seems to be very effective and logical when there is not a good hatch. I am just now getting serious about giving it a try this Spring. Of course, I have asked for and will consider any advice. Thanks to those already responding.

Thanks for the Galloup video. He makes sense. However, instead of a split shot to bottom out the line, I think I would try a heavily weighted nymph to increase my strike chances. Best wishes

[jcampbell]

Thanks for the Galloup video. He makes sense. However, instead of a split shot to bottom out the line, I think I would try a heavily weighted nymph to increase my strike chances. Best wishes

Fritz, Kelly's reasoning for using splitshot at the bottom rather than a weighted nymph also makes sense in that the nymph would hang up more and trout do no look down to feed off the bottom. I think it makes sense to have the bottom nymph about six inches off the bottom and above the splitshot. The second nymph will be tied in about 8 to 12 inches above that. I plan to try several of the alternatives this year to see what works best for my waters. Thanks.

[sagefisher]

There have been many discussions about strike indicators.
Back in December of 2014 here was one of my answers on the subject:

"I have tried many different strike indicators over the years because I do a lot of nymphing.

Frog Hair makes an indicator that won't kink your line because the indicator is threaded onto the leader before you tie on the flies. They have little rubber snubbers that are supposed to hold the indicator in place but I had problems with that and the indicator moved down the leader as you cast.


I use thingamabobbers but they kink the leader a lot. If you don't have to adjust the depth very much they work ok but if you do adjust the depth a lot you will get many kinks which can act like coils an hide some of the strikes you may get. These also will slip down the leader every so often.


I used to use the foam glue on systems but they muck up the leader and don't adjust at all, you end up ripping them off and placing new ones on leaving these white places on the leaders where the glue was, plus they would come off fairly often and float on down the river.


Yarn type indicators that use the 'O' Ring system never seemed to float well for me, absorbing water and going sub-surface and they also kink up the leader a lot and will also move down the leader every so often.


Tipper type strike indicators where you pull your leader thru a slot and twist the leader around a rubber type object in the center of the indicator were decent, kinking the leader a little, but they seemed to come off a lot, way to much.


I must admit I never tried a soft putty type substance, seemed to me it would be messy and I don't want that kind of a mess on my fingers.


There are the ball type indicators that use a stick or tooth pick shoved into them to hold the indicators. These have to be applied before you rig up like the Frog Hair ones. I have used them but I really don't like the stick where it sticks out of the indicator, my tippet seems to wrap around it every so often fouling the line.


Thingamabobber came out with an attached plastic spike where you threaded the leader through the hole like the Frog Hair the shoved the plastic spike into the hole like the toothpick styles. I tried these, the spike would slip off and I ended up cutting off the spike an just using it like a regular Thingamabobber.


I have tried the balloon system but it also kinks the leader and will often leak air especially in very cold and icy conditions.


Most of the guides I float with use a Thingamabobber style system and I just have to deal with the kinked leader.


In other words, no system is perfect, all have some negatives attached to them but they are so effective that I will continue to use strike indicators.


Hope this helps answer your question.


Larry ---sagefisher---"