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Thread: Where do you attach your split shot?

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  1. #1

    Default Where do you attach your split shot?

    I know there are a lot of different ways to add weight to your fishing set up. When fishing multiple flies and needing to get down deep, where do you typically add your shot and what's the thought process behind it. Do you add the weight between flies, in front of the flies?

    I normally add weight in front with the thought the shot will sink first and the flies will float just off the bottom behind the shot.

  2. #2
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    Almost all of the guides I fish with and the way I do it when fishing alone, is to place the split shot on the tapered leader just above the knot that attaches the first piece of tippet for my first fly. That way I don't have to really squeeze the split shot so hard that it may cut into the leader as the knot will stop any sliding. I have had one guide that used the technique of having the split shot all the way down at the bottom of the tippet with the two flies attached above it. I didn't really notice any difference in the rate of hang ups or snagging the rocks on the bottom or for that matter, the catch rate of fish. Guess it is simply matter of how you want to do it.

    Larry ---sagefisher---

  3. #3
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    I prefer to use weighted flies instead of split shot. As to where i put the weight it really depends on what i am doing. For streamers where i am casting distance to cover water i put the heavy fly on the point and the dropper on a tag above it. If the fish are hitting short i will cut the tag dropper off and add a smaller unweighted fly off the weighted streamer bend ( a large soft hackle works great). Sometimes when fish are short striking and i am casting distance i just forego the dropper and try a smaller streamer. For nymphs the best strike detection comes with the weight on the point and and the unweighted fly on a tag above it. if the fish are taking aggressively (or i am trying to find the fly of the day) i often rig the weight fly on top with two unweighted nymphs tied off the hook bend of the fly above it. When i fish like this the weight fly is usually the largest hook size and the point fly is the smallest hook size. Having the weight on the point with a tag dropper or 2 above is the least prone to tangle has the most controlled drift and best bite detection. If i am helping a newer fly fisherman adjust to fishing 2 flies i always rig him with as small a tungsten fly as conditions and hatches dictate on the point with a small fly on tag dropper above. I make sure he know how to roll cast or water load cast and they are usually amazed that they rarely get tangled

  4. #4
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    Split shot? Never use that stuff...ever:



    This does not get hung up or slide on yer' leader...and it works with every placement technique


    PT/TB
    Daughter to Father, "How many arms do you have, how many fly rods do you need?"
    http://planettrout.wordpress.com/

  5. #5
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    [QUOTE=planettrout;524209]Split shot? Never use that stuff...ever:

    [URL="http://s305.photobucket.com/user/planettrout/media/NOSTWISTONS

    [B]How do you apply those twist-on leads? I never saw it done.[/B]

  6. #6
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    How do you apply those twist-on leads? I never saw it done.[/QUOTE]

    lastchance,

    Remove the strip from the packaging. Twist around the leader or tippet. Stretch it slightly, twist again then pinch the ends with a thumbnail. Sometimes, if it is very cold, I will use these to pinch the ends and in some instances to flatten the twisted strip:




    I
    have used as many as 5-6 strips in the Spring when flows have been raging on Eastern Sierra tailwaters that I frequent - just adjust the casting stroke with a "water load". In all the years that I have been using them, I have never damaged or "weakened" a leader or tippet material. A half or quarter of a strip may be used along with easy removal of an entire strip to adjust to different situations. They work exceptionally well for a "bounce rig" which has been around for a very long time:

    https://finspots.files.wordpress.com...0-55-59-am.png

    I also use twist ons for fishing with streamers, but that is a different set-up...


    PT/TB
    Last edited by planettrout; 12-16-2016 at 06:33 PM.
    Daughter to Father, "How many arms do you have, how many fly rods do you need?"
    http://planettrout.wordpress.com/

  7. #7

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    Try Andy Kim's rigs - http://www.fly-fish.com/seminar.html

    Note, the flies are connected eye to eye with a piece of 12-inch tippet.

    Vinny

  8. #8
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    It should go above the top fly, preferably just above the lowest tippet knot. That puts the flies down near the bottom where they should be, but has the disadvantage of losing both flies if the s/s gets hung up in rocks.

    BUT ...

    If you're still using split shot (or twist-on lead), you're doing several things you don't have to do, such as chipping your front teeth, cutting your fingers, weakening your leader, polluting the water, constantly adjusting your weigh to get it to stay in place, and, as mentioned, losing flies needlessly. Honestly, go try the soft, non-lead putty material. Flatten a small amount and roll it on the (dry) leader or tippet anywhere, tapering it and getting it to adhere well. You can add or subtract material easily, it doesn't require a knot to stay in place all day even on 5X, if it gets stuck between rocks you just pull slowly and it deforms and comes free, and a small $6 package will last several years b/c you can remove it and put it back in the package ad it re-blends like Play-Doh. I use something called Sticky-Weight; it's not made anymore, but you may find some on EBay. Loon and others now make it, tho, and it's easy to find.
    Try it once and you'll never go back to split shot.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by idlerick View Post
    It should go above the top fly, preferably just above the lowest tippet knot. That puts the flies down near the bottom where they should be, but has the disadvantage of losing both flies if the s/s gets hung up in rocks.

    BUT ...

    If you're still using split shot (or twist-on lead), you're doing several things you don't have to do, such as chipping your front teeth, cutting your fingers, weakening your leader, polluting the water, constantly adjusting your weigh to get it to stay in place, and, as mentioned, losing flies needlessly. Honestly, go try the soft, non-lead putty material. Flatten a small amount and roll it on the (dry) leader or tippet anywhere, tapering it and getting it to adhere well. You can add or subtract material easily, it doesn't require a knot to stay in place all day even on 5X, if it gets stuck between rocks you just pull slowly and it deforms and comes free, and a small $6 package will last several years b/c you can remove it and put it back in the package ad it re-blends like Play-Doh. I use something called Sticky-Weight; it's not made anymore, but you may find some on EBay. Loon and others now make it, tho, and it's easy to find.
    Try it once and you'll never go back to split shot.
    I have been using twist ons since Chuck Fothergill introduced them to me at his shop in Aspen, CO back in 1974. They do not weaken one's leader, pollute the H2o, cut one's fingers or crack teeth. I will use tungsten putty in waters where lead is prohibited. They must be applied to the leader properly. I have used them above the tippet knot and below the tippet knot. They don't slide if gently spread and pinched at both ends. It excels for a bounce rig. It is a very rare occasion when I (or my kids) lose a set-up with twist ons...Duck hunters have left more lead in water than fly fishermen ever will...


    PT/TB
    Daughter to Father, "How many arms do you have, how many fly rods do you need?"
    http://planettrout.wordpress.com/

  10. #10
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    I have experimented this year with putting a shot above the dropper fly and another above the point or bottom fly in an effort to keep both flies near the bottom. It didn't seem to matter much. I was taught to put all shot above the dropper, the fly closest to me. But I wondered if the trailing or point fly is drifting up.

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