AFTMA Specitications

[Tomcat]

I have purchased a 1/2 heavier AFTMA line for my 4 weight and my 6 weight. Both lines did not perform very well with these "recommended lines". I changed my 4 weight to a standard 6 weight line and found much better performance. I went to a Bass taper 6 weight on my 6 weight rod and improved performance. I fish ponds for bass, tilapia, Mayan and blue gills. My point . . . What is the AFTMA recommendation based on? Trout on a small streams throwing midges and nymphs? What length rods? What action? Seems the AFTMA guide is misleading for many of us and causes line purchases that are inappropriate. Anyone agree?

[sagefisher]

Tomcat,

I am not an expert on this subject, but here are some thoughts.

The variety of lines that are available to us is unbelievable compared to a number of years ago. You fish for bass and you went to a bass tapered line (maximum amount of weight way up forward to cast those big and heavy flies). A very specific line for a very specific purpose. Those are the lines I use when I fish for bass. You didn't mention which type of 4 & 6 weight lines you first used. If they were for trout then they would not handle a much heavier and wind resistant fly. Even in trout fishing, there are variations in lines. Some are made for delicate presentations of very small flies while others are made to cast out huge wind resistant (but not heavy) hopper type flies.

Just for info, I usually email or call the manufacturer of the fly rod I am going to use, or call the fly shop where I bought it, and ask their advice on which fly line to use for a given type of fly fishing. They know their rods and they know which lines work best for any given situation.

The main thing here is you are now out there casting and going after fish.

Larry ---sagefisher---

[Linecaster]

I would concur with the above comments, I would say that the AFTMA ratings were to give you the weight line for a basic fly line that that rod is rated for, having said that, I have experimented with a OPST Skagit line of 150 gr8 on my 3 weight and it casts beatifully, for clear water trout? No but for river and warm water what a line. I also nowadays go for a half or one size heavier on all but my 2 weight.

[pillcaster]

I agree the AFTMA guide is misleading, but I dont blame the AFTMA. They just publish a list of standards. There are at least 3 variables with matching a rod to a line, 1. The rod - each manufacturer has their own definition of what a, for example, 4wt rod action is. Sometimes, the actions even within the same line of rods will be inconsistent. You may buy a rod in a 4wt that "loves a wf4f", and then buy the same rod in a 6wt that throws a wf7f "best". There has been an effort to try and define rod actions (google the Common Cents System and Action Angle or even the "deflection Chart" from the yellowstone angler shootouts) but there is no common standardization of actions used by all manufacturers. 2. The line - compare the AFTMA standards to any manufacturer's line specs (if you can even find them) and you will find a lot of variations. Then throw in all the line tapers and when you talk about "improved performance" that now depends on how much line you have past the rod tip, or your preferred fishing distance. 3. The caster - I can find a line and rod that I think "feels perfect", and the next caster will find the rig overlined or underlined.

So what is the bottom line? (pun intended)
I think there is no way you can compare rods and the line and line taper without personally casting the combination. That may mean buying numerous lines. It would be nice if there was a objective way to compare rod actions, the terms "slow" and "fast" really don't mean anything. At least we could compare apples to apples, or at least granny smiths to golden delicious....