To Spine or not to Spine?

Okay, when building a 4 piece short (6'6") rod, is the placement of the guides in relationship to the spine a major concern?

I've built about a dozen rods and was able to identify where the spine was. The guides were placed on the opposite side. I'm just wondering if the same rationale holds true with more and much shorter pieces? Also, how do you identify the spine on sections that are about 19.5 inches?

Thanks.

Allan

[PanFisher]

Tyeflies,

The word lately is to just keep the rod straight. I am not sure I agree - I am not completely sold on that one just yet.

I am still of the old school and like to spine my rod the old way. By bending it and locating the side the spine is on.

With a 4+ piece rod the thicker short sections need a muscle man to bend them. On those sections I don't believe it matters but I on the upper sections I still identify the spine and place the guides accordingly.

Now then, anyone ready to open the argument of where the guides should be placed in relation to the spine?


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Let No One Walk Alone
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Bill

I've given the spine issue some thought. Research tells me that the spine on multi piece rods changes when the rod is assembled. I read that somewhere but can not verify it.

I never figured out where to put the guides, on the spine, at 90 degs to the spine, weak side, hard side. What difference does choosing the position of the guides make?

I found that few if any major rod manufacturers spine their rods, they wrap um for straight.

I have placed guides on the spine off the spine and not paying any attention to the spine whatsoever...I can't tell a whit of difference in any of um.

If I am purchasing a new rod and sight down it and see a dog leg in it I don't buy it wheather it has been spined or not.

I try to spine my sections, but if there is an obvious curve to the blank, I'll put the guides in line with that. With the minimal impact the spine of the rod has with modern compsites (IMO), I would rather have the guides aligned with the curve of the blank. I normally use multi-piece blanks for 90% of my building, and straightness isn't usually an issue. So if I can fine a spine, I'll use it, and if I can't find it, I refuse to believe it will impact my fishing or casting (and I'm not too convinced it will impact anything significantly in any case). On a 4 piece 6'6" blank, you will probably only have to worry about the top 1 or 2 sections. But don't get too worried about it either way.

"Now then, anyone ready to open the argument of where the guides should be placed in relation to the spine?" Nope. I personally don't think it matters. You can make a good case for either one, but I think the spine impact is negligible in real world terms.

[J Castwell]

OK, at least I get an opinion. Stick all the sections together... adjust untill the rod is straight. Next. hold by the butt end and 'sight' down the rod. Roll the rod until you find where it 'droops' the most. It will have a side that is the most 'up' and opposite that where it is the most down. I like a rod that has the guides on the 'down' side. You can test this yourself at a fly shop first if you like. Sight down a high-end rod. When you roll the rod to the 'guides on top' you can often see right down thru the whole string of them.

JC..my theory is just the opposite of yours. When I get'er lined up for straight I put the guides on the side that is on the other side of the side that turns up. Thataway the weight of the guides will straighten'er out when the rod is unlined. Course when you put the line on all this is nulified.

[J Castwell]

Jer, you might be right. It just seems when I sight down rods at fly shops they are like I mentioned.

[PanFisher]

JC,

I have a different story:

I grew up in Southern California and watched fisherman bring in rods that were twisted or broke due to the strain put on the blank while fighting a big tuna.

I was told this was because the rod was not built by a custom rod-builder so the guides were not aligned with the spine. They stated even the expensive rods broke because the manufacturers were too cheap to line up the guides with the spine. The story went that guides when placed off the spine would cause the rod to twist eventually exploding the blank. The twisted rods I saw confirmed this theory and the broken rods I saw had pretty much exploded to pieces.

I heard others say differently so I questioned some expert rod-builders on the guide location. Funny thing even though I questioned Owners and CEO?s of companies like Sage, Scott, Loomis, Fenwick, Powell, and others I always received a completely different answer. I could not get two answers the same.

For this reason I have gone back to lining my guides along the spine. I don?t care about straight ? I care about performance. Casting performance, while changed, is negligible - very few casters can tell the difference. I do care about performance while fishing and how the rod will stand up to large fish ? so I do as I observed as a kid. I align the guides with the natural bend of the rod.

Hopefully my 2wt will stand up to that 5lb Bass I keep looking for!


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Let No One Walk Alone
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Bill

[J Castwell]

Well ok, but Steve just cast over 120 feet with a factory G.Loomis rod. That is pretty good.

[PanFisher]

JC,

At one time I cast with Steve - it was no competition, he was always about 50' farther than I could cast. He is one fine caster!

That was the ACA Steelhead Distance event.

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Let No One Walk Alone
><))))'>------<'((((><
Bill