about freezing materials

[rainbowchaser]

On SCIENCE FRIDAY today they played a clip from a u-tube series where a museum worker was dissecting a dead wolf. The carcass had been frozen two months when she thawed it. She was surprised by live fleas jumping in front of her scalpel. It seems that eggs survived the freezing and hatched quickly when it was thawed.

[Joe Billingsley]

That's why it's recommended to freeze, thaw, then freeze again.

[fishbum]

Forget the freezing altogether. Forget the microwave also.

Scrape off all of the fat and connecting tissue from the skin. Wash the skin in warm water and Dawn that has a couple handfuls of borax in the mix. Rinse in clear water and dry. Store in zip-lock bags or plastic containers with moth balls that contain paradichlorobenzene as the active ingredient. You can store in the bags with borax if you want. Use only borax to absorb any fat that remains. Never use salt.

The borax in the wash will kill bugs. The moth balls will kill both bugs and eggs should there be any left after a good washing. The moth balls also prevent any new infestations. Moth balls that contain naphtha as the active ingredient only repels the bugs.

Jerry

[Ray Kunz]

I've been told that paradichlorobenzine is only in the "flakes" form and that "moth balls" are naptha.
Was I misinformed?

[cannonx4]

I have used Tide detergent and washed the dogs and horses around the farm. That stuff will kill fleas.

[Allan]

Anytime I've gotten some skinned bird or pieces of hide I've done the following: Make sure I remove as much fat as I can; Place about a 1/4 cup of Dawn detergent and a cap full of Chlorox bleach into a bucket of very warm, but not hot water. If too hot the skin will expand and the hair might fall out. Swish material around and let it soak for a few minutes; Rinse completely; Wring as much of the water out as possible without injuring the skin. Oh, if you just have feathers, after the rinsing, put them in a woman's stocking and whirl it around to let centrifugal force force the water out; Place skin against cardboard and let it air dry. You can dry the feathers faster with a hair dryer. Once completely dry, place materials in individual a zip lock bags with a moth ball or two. Label the bag identifying the contents and date. Keep segregated from other materials for a month. You don't want to risk the possibility of any infestation. I've used this method for many, many years, and it's worked.
Finally, some stuff isn't worth the bother. Enthusiastically thank the provider and then carefully dispose of what you were given.

Allan

[fishbum]

I've been told that paradichlorobenzine is only in the "flakes" form and that "moth balls" are naptha.
Was I misinformed?

I have found it in flakes, balls, and cakes. Try the dollar store. The stuff I get is Enos.



Allen is right about "some stuff is not worth the bother". I politely decline to accept a piece of deer hair. I do whole deer hides and have more than I can use most of the time.

Jerry

[gerri]

Whenever I have been gifted a hide or fur pieces, I have always made the first wash and soak with a good quality PET shampoo that is as specific as possible for fleas. Second shampoo, soak and rinse is with Dawn dish soap. Rinse thoroughly at least 3 times. Air dry thoroughly and when dry, sprinkle very generously with Borax. Place into airtight Rubbermaid sealed container (isolation box) for about 3 months or longer. Remove from box and repeat all previously listed steps. Replace fur/feathers into clean isolation box and cover with moth balls.
Many years ago someone brought me the carcass of a red fox which I took to a taxidermist to be skinned. The taxidermist looked over the fox carcass and told me that the fox was diseased and had contracted mange and suggested that it be discarded. I often worry about gifted items and just how well the items have cleaned and properly prepared for handling by flytyers. I shudder to think how many folks handle furs and feathers and then touch themselves or put fingers in mouth. I am a board certified, licensed health professional dedicated to prevention and sometimes my methods may seem overkill but to me it has always been safer, healthier, smarter and less expensive to prevent problems than to resort to shortcuts that are counterproductive. Never have ascribed to the freezer/microwave methods. Just my 2 cents worth.
Gerri

[Silver Creek]

Do you lick you fingers when you dub? If you do, don't use chemicals to kill bugs and eggs. You will cross contaminate yourself. Then again, a third eye in the middle of your forehead may help in fly tying. ;^)

[WarrenP]

Every time someone offers me a gift of "road kill" or something they shot, I make sure to let them know how much I appreciated the offer, but, I just do not want to take the chance of ruining all my other fur/feathers with a raw material. I prefer to purchase fur/feathers from a fly shop and hope it is safe. I have found fur pieces at antique shops that were part of a fur coat collar or coat and will use it at times. I just feel better using material that has been processed and I know one can use raw material but I just do not feel I want to go through the long drawn out process of making it "safe" to use. Since I usually just tie for my use, I do not need a large inventory of fur/feathers and the higher cost of "safe" material is fine with me.