Sizing n/s winding check
I received a drill bit gauge in the mail as a marketing offer.
It has over 30 holes in it from 1/16 to 1/2" graduated in 64ths.
If you find the proper hole to correspond to your winding check size by sliding it to the proper place on the blank and convert it to a decimal it should work.
Sizing n/s winding checks especially by mail order has always been a challange for me.
Buss, if you will go to Goldenwitch's website, download their catalog in a pdf format, you can see all of their components and get the bonus of reading how Russ recommends measurements to be taken for winding checks, ferrules, etc.
If you rely on nust measuring and ordering, it's hard telling what you will receive. There is apparantly no industry standard for measuring for ferrules and winding checks. The typical rule of thumb for ordering winding checks is to measure at the point of fitment with a dial caliper or micrometer, divide by .015625 and you will have the 64th's conversion. On graphite, pretty easy since it is round. On Bamboo, measure opposing apex points for all 3 opposite corners, and average it then do the conversion.
Good tip Buzz
Where were you when I needed to know that two weeks ago?
The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements.
--- Horace Kephart
Heck, make your own winding check and don't fret or bother to order one that would be the correct size. Custom one out of wood, metal, cork, whatever...taper that thing from your handle right down to your rod and glue it on. You don't need a bit or hole gauge to do that. If at first you don't succeed maybe parachuting is not for you. <grin> just kiddin'....if at first you don't succeed just make another one....till you get one you like. Put your initials or your first name on it!
Gem
[This message has been edited by Plain Old Jim (edited 21 February 2006).]
[This message has been edited by Plain Old Jim (edited 21 February 2006).]
[This message has been edited by Plain Old Jim (edited 21 February 2006).]
OK Jim,
I'll bite, just how would you suggest that I go about making my own.
I'm just about to apply the wrap finish to a Japanese cane rod that I'm refinishing.
I don't want to put any more time or money into it than is necessary in case it turns out to be a P.O.S. The huge chrome winding check that was original is too ugly, but it hid the dowel that the grip was built on. I was going to go with nothing, but something to cover the dowel would be nice.
The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements.
--- Horace Kephart
I have built rods with a tapered thread wrap instead of a winding check, forming a smooth transition from handle to rod.
First I turn the cork handle to a taper that almost touches the blank, stopping about 1/16" from the rod. I use some masking tape to protect the blank from any stray sanding.
Then I use epoxy and epoxy filler to build up a smooth taper from handle to blank. I extend the epoxy about 3/4" up onto the cork. Scoring the cork lightlty with an exacto blade will keep the epoxy from running over the cork and give you a nice crisp line. The epoxy filler helps with gap filling and makes the mix less dense for easier sanding if you need to adjust the final taper. Several light coats will be smoother than one have coat.
Once the epoxy cures you can over wrap with the thread of your choice. The epoxy over cork prevents the cork from compressing when you wrap, eliminating any unsightly bump. I like to wrap about 3/4" up the cork and 3/4" down the rod, making a 1 1/2" wrap total.
I have also made winding checks from wood. Using a hole saw I made a wood plug with a hole in the center. Grain should run parallel to the rod length. The interior hole should match the rod dia.
I slip the plug onto a 1/4 X 2" bolt and turned it to shape on my drill press with sand paper and files. Wrap the bolt shaft with masking tape as needed to match the inside diameter. Placing some scrap wood either side of the plug lets you turn the wood right down to the shaft.
I coat the wood with rod finish epoxy prior to putting it on the rod. Softer woods like redwood burl turned easier than oak or maple, the epoxy coat makes them durable.
I haven't done it...but I think you can also make a mold out of a block of wood.....then using a ball peen hammer or what ever....pound a piece of metal into your mold to shape the cone you want, drill it out and cut to fit. Elbow grease work....huh? Still think it is another way to make your own winding check.
Gem
Just turned my first winding check (drill press method). I used zebrawood to match the handle. I am very happy with the results, except I used a pre made grip and it's not perfectly centered. Next time, I'm gonna turn my own to make a perfect match.
Adam
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