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Thread: Straightening Tips

  1. #1

    Default Straightening Tips

    If there are any babysitters out there for this old man, I could use your help. I want to try to remove the memory from the tips of the rod I am redoing. I have the tips stripped down, haven't put any new finish on them yet. I read where an iron would work. Would hanging the tips with sufficient weight at the other end pulling them plumb and then using a heat gun work?

    Really appreciate any advise.
    Steve

  2. #2

    Default

    Rookie,
    straightening tips can be a pain but both of your ideas will work. One of the best methods I have seen is to heat the sections as they are suspended with a substantial weight on them to ensure that they are straight. Another good method, one I got from Mike Brooks a few years ago is to use an iron on a hard surface ensuring that you do not overheat the section causing delamination, and apply the heat evenly to all 6 sides, then laying it on a cool surface that is flat until the section cools to ambient temperature.

    Not too long ago I saw still yet another method using the iron to heat the section, then putting the section in a machined groove on a board and putting another board on top of it to hold it into the straight machined groove. I am making one of those boards now because it just makes too much sense for it not to work.

    When dealing with a section that has a set to it, always check the bamboo to ensure that it is not loaded with moisture. If you bend a section of bamboo and it stays in the direction that you bend it, it is very possible that the section is too high in moisture content and has to be dried out. That is when hanging the weight on the end of it and leaving it in an area near a heat source, with low humidity will help to both straighten it, and get the humiditiy back to where it is a usable section again. You ALWAYS want to check it for delamination when you have that condition.

    There are many many good methods for straightening a section, and quite frankly, I don't know which is the absolute best, but these methods have worked for me. I am sure that many others can offer solutions that work equally as well for them.

    Good luck with it

    Leo

    [This message has been edited by dleo6446 (edited 12 March 2006).]

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks Leo,

    I don't think it's a moisture problem. This is an old rod I'm rebuilding. I've had it stored for several years in a sock and tube. The tips had a curve at that time. Do you use a low heat setting on the heat gun method, and also how do you know when enough heat has been applied? Trial and error?
    Steve

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    quitecorner,ct.
    Posts
    2,554

    Default

    There is a thread on this on the classic flyrod forum that I just read this morning.
    <A HREF="http://p205.ezboard.com/fclarksclassicflyrodforumrepairrestorationofbamboo flyrods.showMessage?topicID=2437.topic" TARGET=_blank>
    classic flyrod forum</A>


    [This message has been edited by dudley (edited 12 March 2006).]
    The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements.
    --- Horace Kephart

  5. #5
    Guest

    Default

    Awright, you guys. I just recently got bitten by the boo bug after buying an Elkhorn 7'6" 4wgt. Now I can't wait to get my hands on more of the lovely reed.

    After reading your posts on refinishing old rods you've got me scouting second hand stores, estate sales and e-bay looking for rods that can be refinished.

    Rookie, keep asking questions, I'm learning a lot from the resposes.

    REE

  6. #6

    Default

    Morning Dudley,

    That site told me what i needed to know. I am apprehensive about the steam because I have the varnished removed. I will go with the dry heat and give that a try. Thanks for the information.

    Morning Ree,

    I've got so many questions I just hope all of these fine people don't get tired of answering them.

    [This message has been edited by rookie (edited 12 March 2006).]
    Steve

  7. #7

    Default

    Yes Rookie, low heat is the best,and the other thing is that you want to continually check the boo, if it burns your hand its too hot. What you want to do is to warm up the bamboo consistently throughout the section but dont get it hot enough to delaminate....that is painful. Once it is hot then you can manipulate it to get the set out....it really isnt that hard to do but it can be a bit time consuming....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Gardnerville, NV
    Posts
    486

    Default

    Yes, you definitely need patience as rushing it usually means you'll add more heat which may cause delam as everyone said.
    I've actually cooled mine under running water after heating and reworking the set (even with it stripped). Didn't seem to cause any problems but can't guarantee you'll be as lucky. Maybe best to stay dry.
    Again patience in this step.


    ------------------
    God Blesses!
    A wing & a Prayer! ----*<(((><~ ~ ~ ~
    Quinn
    "I envy not him that eats better meat than I do, nor him that is richer, or that wears better clothes than I do; I envy nobody but him, and him only that catches more fish than I do." Izaak Walton
    God Bless and Tight Lines ----*<(((>< ~ ~ ~

  9. #9

    Default

    You guys really have me under your wing and I appreciate it.
    Steve

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Manchester,Michigan,USA
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    Default

    Yep Rookie, you are correct. Fantastic bunch of people who really have someones questions and concerns at heart. A wing and a prayer here. We will have to compare our H-I's later in the year. Jonezee

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