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Thread: Line weight rant

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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Line weight rant

    I guess the AFTMA line weight standards are just so 20th Century. Don't need 'em anymore, apparently. Rio and Cabela's, among others, have some lines that are listed as being one line weight heavier to perform better with today's faster rods. And S.A. has some that are a half-weight heavier- for the same reason. Really? First, we've known for some time that many rod makers mislabel their rods re.: line weight. Have done that for decades now. They deserve criticism for that, but we've become used to it, right? But a line that's one size heavier is just plain wrong. Say a 5-weight floating line, for example. There is a specific weight range that was established decades ago for this: 134-146 grains. One size heavier? That makes it a 6-weight, NOT a 5-weight. Yet a fly fisher who just walks into a shop, or orders a line on the net, may be getting the wrong line(s) for his rod(s). Remember now- not everyone can go to a nearby fly shop to try out different lines on rods. My point (finally): why can't the rod and line makers give us reasonably accurate labels? Yes, I know that different casters may need different lines on the same rod. But it seems that it has now become a rat's nest of confusion. There. I told you upfront it would be a rant! But I do feel a little better. Chuck

  2. #2
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    Default

    Yep, your anger is well placed there. And to top it off there are lines being made for every fish that swims in fresh or saltwater today. I knew we were approaching the end of time when they came out with a carp taper. You not only have to deal with differing line weights that don't fall into the old guidelines but now every taper is bulked up or thinned down in different areas depending on what you're fishing for. Then you have bring into consideration the distance you plan to cast on a regular basis, and I have lines now that are "easy mend" and "ultra thin" and perfect for streamers. Seems like lines that were true to the old double taper are a lot easier to find. The Weight Forward lines have gotten completely out of hand with the variations available. If it wasn't too much trouble for a lazy guy like me I think I'd go with silk DT and just weigh them myself.

  3. #3
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    I have two ways around this 'problem' that I use. First, I can email the fly rod manufacturer and ask them what would be the best line for 'X' style of fishing with a certain fly rod and they are very will get right back to me with a suggestion. The second method is to talk to my local fly shop and ask them, they are also very knowledgeable. Just a thought.

    Larry ---sagefisher---

  4. #4

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    Here's what I do.

    Put the line on the rod.

    Don't worry if it's a size heavier, lighter, odd tapered, or whatever.

    Fish with it.

    If I don't like it, take it back.

    I've found that I can 'figure out' how to cast any rod with any line rated between two sizes smaller and four sizes heavier than the 'rod rating' pretty easily.

    I'm not a great caster. So as long as the line will take my fly to the fish, I don't sweat 'optimum' too much. For those fishermen that are really good casters, I'd think they would know exactly what they were doing and could figure it out pretty quickly. For those who are beginners, close is just fine and they'll learn with whatever line they have.

    Buddy
    It Just Doesn't Matter....

  5. #5
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    Default

    Sorry, Buddy. I have to disagree with you. A tyro needs to have a line that is correct for that rod- or maybe a bit heavier, for starters. Then he/she can feel the cast so much better. I'm a pretty good, experienced caster, but certainly not an expert. I, too, can cast lines that are noticeably lighter and heavier for a given rod- but that doesn't mean I like it. When there's a match for the rod and line combo in my own hands, it just makes fishing so much more enjoyable. Chuck

  6. #6
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    Just another reason why I like fishing with fiberglass. They seem to be able to handle a wider range of line weights. I know it isn't right for all applications, but it works for my limited style. My 2 cents. Well, maybe just a penney.
    Where you go is less important than how you take the steps.
    Fish with a Friend,
    Lotech Joe


  7. #7
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    Default

    Lotech, I think you are right about that. I think of there being 3 primary rod material types without getting into exotics and mixes. Graphite, fiberglass and bamboo. Of those the graphite can best handle heavier weight lines rather than lighter. I also think fiberglass is the most forgiving in either direction. Bamboo, which is basically all I use right now, can be the most critical of all to line right. Sure, up or down a line weight it will still function but if you want to have the sweet feel of the classic grass getting the right taper and weight can make a so-so rod just sing to you. 'Course it always tries to sing in soprano and goes off key quite often in my hands but you get the picture.

  8. #8
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    ggh,

    For my style of fishing I over line my nymphing rods. Main reason, I am not casting long distance nor do I like to do hardly any false casting as you are just asking for trouble. So, I over line by one size to have more weight out of the end of the rod for the short distance I a casting. That helps to load up my fly rod more so I can make decent short range casts with a heavy load of flies, split shots, with several hinge points. If I was casting the fast rod a long distance then I would stick with the weight suggested by the manufacturer. Most of my dry fly rods are matched, rod weight to line weight. The only time I may over line one of them is if I know I will be casting very large dry flies a long way on a very windy day. But, most of the time I stick with the suggested line weight.

    Larry ---sagefisher---

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck441 View Post
    First, we've known for some time that many rod makers mislabel their rods re.: line weight. Have done that for decades now.
    I would disagree with that. Rod makers label their rods with the line that they think is the best fit for the rod in the situations that they feel the rod will most commonly be used. And tbis usually base it on a basic DT or WF type - mostly WF today.

    But this is purely the subjective choice of the designer or design team . The designer can't possible fit their subjective judgement to every possible caster. This is why you will sometimes see whole lineups of rods from a maker that people will insist are incorrectly rated for line weight yet others ewill think they are spot on.

    The line thing can get quite confusing today and the marketing rhetoric doesn't help. What I would really like is for all the line makers to clearly define the line taper profiles and the 30ft grain weight and the total head grain wt. some of the companies are moving closer to this ideal.

  10. #10

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    Chuck,

    Understand why you'd disagree. Some folks think that what is written on rod is correct, or what is written on the line box is 'correct'. Some don't, and would wish that it was so.

    As you've noted, some, if not many, rod or line makers finagle, fudge, or play with the line weight rating for many reasons. I don't think these are nefarious or intended to mislead, it's just the way the fly rod and line world works.

    Also, some believe that there is one 'perfect' line for any rod. I do not believe this at all.

    If any new caster buys a fly rod and a line that 'matches' it based on the rating on the rod and the line box, that caster will be able to learn to cast well enough to catch fish with that set up. It may not be a dead on accurate match because of the practices of the rod maker or line manufacturer, but it will be close enough for a beginner. A beginner doesn't need a 'perfect match' to learn to cast. Close is okay, as the act of learning to cast the rod and line will cause that person to adapt to the equipment they have.

    It's only the journeymen and experts that seem to bemoan the lack of standardization. I find this odd, as these folks should be past relying on the labels on rods or boxes.

    In any event, we'll have to agree to disagree. I'm happy that a person can walk into WalMart, buy a decent fly rod/reel/line combo for between $50 and $100, and get out and learn to fly fish. If the rod isn't the 'best' or line doesn't 'match' perfectly, they won't know or really care as long as they can catch a fish or two and hopefully get hooked on the sport.

    Buddy
    It Just Doesn't Matter....

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