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Thread: GURGLER - Bob Boese - Mar 10, 2014

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    Default GURGLER - Bob Boese - Mar 10, 2014

    GURGLER
    Popper-dropper rigs can be fished in many ways, depending on the conditions and the temperament of the fish. The first option is the pop-wait/pop-wait. The key here is to be patient between the pops to allow for the clouser to travel up and then drop. An easy key is to let the ripples from the pop fade out. Most hits on the clouser will come on the drop.

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    Hi Bob. I'm relatively new to fly fishing for smallmouths. How do you determine how deep to fish the Clouser? Should it be fished near the bottom? And, what pound test do you use to connect it to the gurgler? I never thought of this idea and I'm sure going to give it a try. I've fished hopper-dropper type rigs for trout, but never gave this a thought. What colors do best for you?
    Bruce

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    There’s a lot of "ifs" and "either/ors" in determining popper/dropper set-up.


    First, the dropper length is normally determined by water depth. You don’t want more dropper leader than the waters depth or you will be dragging the bottom. This is fine for a worm fly (I’ll address that pattern/technique in another article) but not so good for clousers. However, if you are fishing with a crawfish colored clouser bouncing it off the bottom is also perfectly acceptable.


    Second, the longer the leader between the popper and the dropper the harder it is to cast because the dropper will want to catch up with the popper during the loop. Consequently, a drop up to about 30" can be handled with a rod as short as 7? feet but longer drops need longer rods. Be prepared to make large loops – practicing is necessary to avoid the traditional tight loops.


    Third, bass pros usually fish with 17# -20# test line. Bass are not line shy. My preference for shorter drops is 12# straight line primary leader to the popper and 8# test to the clouser. For longer drops and larger flies I use a stiffer/larger line (perhaps 20# leading to 12#).


    Fourth, color is dependent on water color and prey. For waters with bluegill and green sunfish I have had particularly good luck with royal blue and white or chartreuse (because it "ain’t no use if it ain’t chartreuse"). For waters with shad try silver and white. The two flies need not match in color, but I have more luck when they do. Red headed poppers seem to make bass instinctively strike but I’ve not had a lot of luck with red clousers unless they’re imitating crawfish.



    My clousers are usually bucktail with a few strips of tinsel or flashabou used for extra dressing. Krystal flash tends to tangle and I firmly believe just a couple of strips of flash are perfect to add more allure.
    "So many people are out there doing things they call environmentalism, but only because it's politically correct or has a lot of cache."

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    I am assuming that when the article refers to a "Clouser", the reference is to a Clouser Minnow and not to one of the many other flies that Bob Clouser has designed. Is that correct?

    I like and often use CMs and plan to have a go at using one as a dropper. Somehow, I think a more lightly weighted Clouser might work best, a bead-eye rather than a lead-eye tie, for instance.

    The fisherman in the picture sure did have his hands full, didn't he.

    ~Paul

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    Hi Paul,
    If you are thinking about reducing the weight of a Clouser head by using a bead please try using metal bead chain. I've done this for flies I've tied for guys fishing for salmon and the difference seems to really help,

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    Yes, Ray, I misspoke. By "bead head" I meant bead-chain head. That is one of the two types of Clouser Minnows I tie, one type lead eyes and the other bead-chain. I have several sizes of chain I use, for a variety of fly sizes. Thanks for the suggestion, a good one. ~pfa

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    Yes, CM WITH BEAD CHAIN EYES.
    "So many people are out there doing things they call environmentalism, but only because it's politically correct or has a lot of cache."

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