tip top
Started my fist blank from HH. Reel seat and grip are on, but the tip top gave me fits. Used the tip top glue stick, but I dont know if I got it hot enough or what. Big mess, lumping up etc. My question, can you use epoxy? Seems to me it would be easier to control. Welcome all tips
Hey Clyde, yes you can use whatever you want to use that will get the job done. What I would recommend with the glue stick is pretty simple, I have a pice of piano wire that I use to make guides with mounted in a wooden handle. This wire is .027"...pretty thin wire. When I heat up the hot glue I use that wire to work the glue down inside the tip top before putting the tip top on the rod. if it starts to set up a little inside the tip top, just heat it a little and it liquifies again. This allows you to get the glue down inside where it will do its work. It will "gob" up on the rod at the mouth of the tip top but that will come right off.
Hope this helps
Leo
I've never used the hot melt glue. I use epoxy for the top because I was always afraid that the hot melt might soften in a hot car and let the tip twist or come off. I'm not sure if it is possible, but I've stuck with epoxy anyway. It works great.
Clyde,
When I lived in California I always used the ferrule cement for my tip tops - it worked great once I figured how to get it in there. I usually covered the rod tip with the melted glue and shoved it all in the tip top. This worked for me.
Until I moved to Arizona ? guess what ? it gets hot enough here all my tiptops melted off my rods!!!! I now use the very quick dry epoxy. Bottom line is the slower an epoxy dries the more firm the hold. With the tip-top you may need to remove it sometime in the future. The application of heat will break down the quick-dry epoxy allowing for removal of the tip-top in the future if needed. The slow-dry epoxy may be more permanent so look for the 5-minute or less epoxy if you decide to go that way.
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Bill
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