Update me

[Greg H]

I own several rods - and have also moved several rods along to others. I belong to a casting club and can try any of the other member's rods. I think there are two distinctions between less expensive and more expensive rods - not counting better cork or better quality hardware.

Some rods just feel lighter and are lighter. Any rod that feels tip heavy (or just plain heavy) is out. I don?t fish a 7wt Ovis cane for that reason.
Some rods track straighter on the cast and have less tip bounce after the hard stop (tip bounce can be really tiring and make your elbow sore). I know there is the technical term 'damping/dampening', but my term is boingy, any rod that feels 'boingy' is out.

Many times the less expensive rods don't pass the test, yet not all expensive rods do either (the Fenwick Iron Feather failed). If you FEEL comfortable with your rod -good. If (because it is a tool in your hand/arm) it does not FEEL good, then it is likely a rod that will feel right is more expensive.

[chewydog]

Some rods track straighter on the cast and have less tip bounce after the hard stop (tip bounce can be really tiring and make your elbow sore). I know there is the technical term 'damping/dampening', but my term is boingy, any rod that feels 'boingy' is out.

This. Less bounce/dampening/enhanced recovery all equal accuracy. Which is why I never understood the claim that sloooooower rods deliver a dry fly more presentably. When I'm fishing to risers, accuracy is key. If you're splashing your line to get there, you're just doing it wrong. The line is layed out, the fly drifts to the water. How does a fast rod not make that happen?

[vicrider]

And then there are those of us who've had most of the different types of rods designed over the years, starting with my Wonderods of the 50's and 60's, then Fenwick, Browning, Lamiglas, Sage, and several other glass, graphite, boron and others. Right now I still have a couple of mid range graphites of 6, 8, and 10wt., plus several glass rods to play with. What do I use almost exclusively today when I am up to getting on the water? Bamboo. Yes, it's slow, heavy, and I love it. Finding the rhythm of a bamboo rod and gently laying out line is more than just fishing, it's becoming more of one with your environment. Maybe too melodramatic for younger guys but as you age this becomes more important than the fish, tho bamboo will catch and land them fine.

As for costs, I have several rods that would easily surpass the "perceived" value of the top end rods of today, but I'll stick the grass rods and just muddle along happier, or at least as happy as the guy zinging three casts for my every two. And when I fish a modern bamboo rod I personally know the builder of that rod and we've talked about what I'm looking for in an action. And when I fish a 70+ year old rod from one of the great names of the past I feel I carry a piece of history with me that no graphite rod off the shelf can ever know.

[Uncle Jesse]

Vicrider,

I think you described very well why we do this. It's not about having the latest greatest rod or reel for most of us. It is about what gives us joy. That is a little different for each of us.

[Chuck441]

This. Less bounce/dampening/enhanced recovery all equal accuracy. Which is why I never understood the claim that sloooooower rods deliver a dry fly more presentably. When I'm fishing to risers, accuracy is key. If you're splashing your line to get there, you're just doing it wrong. The line is layed out, the fly drifts to the water. How does a fast rod not make that happen?

Up to a point, I agree with you. But it is quite a bit easier for most flyfishers to deliver a fly more gently with a moderate, rather than fast, rod. It's the line speed that's a factor here. A faster (stiffer) rod tends to "need" to deliver with speed, while a more moderate action allows the line to straighten out with a bit more control from the caster. Both work, of course, but for dry fly work at less than great distances, i believe the slower action rod makes it easier for most casters.

Chuck

[redietz]

This. Less bounce/dampening/enhanced recovery all equal accuracy. Which is why I never understood the claim that sloooooower rods deliver a dry fly more presentably. When I'm fishing to risers, accuracy is key. If you're splashing your line to get there, you're just doing it wrong. The line is layed out, the fly drifts to the water. How does a fast rod not make that happen?

Slow does not necessarily mean more bounce. For example, split cane recovers fairly quickly, even though even though rods made from it are generally slower than rods made of plastic. And a well designed slower rod (yes, there are horrible slow rods, as well as horrible fast rods) is unloading for the whole casting stroke, allowing for correction as needed.

On the other hand, fast does mean fast. If you straighten your leader completely, with lots of speed left when that final turnover occurs, the fly (not the line) will hit the water harder than if it barely turns over, and what's more will start to drag faster than if there's a tiny bit of slack in the leader. Yes, you compensate for this with a parachute cast or some other technique, but you're making things harder for yourself with the fast rod if you need a delicate delivery.

On a windy day, however, faster will be more accurate. You pays your money and takes your choice.

[Chuck441]

Slow does not necessarily mean more bounce. For example, split cane recovers fairly quickly, even though even though rods made from it are generally slower than rods made of plastic. And a well designed slower rod (yes, there are horrible slow rods, as well as horrible fast rods) is unloading for the whole casting stroke, allowing for correction as needed.

On the other hand, fast does mean fast. If you straighten your leader completely, with lots of speed left when that final turnover occurs, the fly (not the line) will hit the water harder than if it barely turns over, and what's more will start to drag faster than if there's a tiny bit of slack in the leader. Yes, you compensate for this with a parachute cast or some other technique, but you're making things harder for yourself with the fast rod if you need a delicate delivery.

On a windy day, however, faster will be more accurate. You pays your money and takes your choice.

What Bob said.

Chuck

[scuba steve]

One theme that comes out of this is many people who use sub-$300 rods feel they don't cast good enough to own a high end rod. If they would take a step up to the $300 plus rods they would see a differnece. I guide an can not count the number of times I have had clients show up with cheap rods and insist they fish them becuase they are "comfortable", most times by the end of the day I can talk them into it, then the light comes on that guy who was struggling to cast the crappy pfluger or boxed SI rod all of a sudden is throwing tight loops and 50+ feet casts. this does nto alway happen but it does more times than not. will it make you a better fisherman " no" , only allow you to actually cast to your potential. 8 0r 9 years ago if you asked if a high end +600 rod was worth it I may have sadi no unless you were a real good caster. But with the new blanks with boron , nano silica resins mixed with the high end graphite they are. I have found that the actual noticed "speed" of these rods is mor moderate that fast, do to the ability to make the upper section thinner and more flexible and have a stronger mid butt section to add the power. Some high end stuff is still like casting a pool cue but not all. these rods will only allow you to cast somewhat better there is no short cut or magic that will make you a better fly fisherman than time on the water. reel on the other hand are more in line with the car theme. do you need a high end reel probably not are they nice to have Oh ya baby.

steve

[Lotech]

OK Joe ... glass huh? I have a few blanks (depending what size/wt you want) here we can wrap you one

My favorite (at the moment) is the clone of the Sage 3200 type of reels. I have a few of these and gave my son one for a 3wt I'm working on

We need to talk. I'll send you a PM.

[MikeCO]

This is a great topic!!!!

I am brand new to fly fishing but not new to rods. Coming from a Bass and Saltwater background I NEVER thought that a "more expensive" rod would help me catch fish until I put aside the old "Tru Value" fiberglass rod that was passed down through generations it seems.

When it came to bass fishing days when I started fishing local tournaments I was shocked to see how the "pro's" had sooooo many "high end" rods. Well I simply could not afford them. When I was asked if I would like to try my first partner's pro rig I jumped at the opportunity! Here is the catch...he stated I should use my reel with it to see the true difference. While I wasn't amazed I was actually surprised at how it cast. Was it night and day....no....but I wasn't experienced enough to notice

I am brand new to fly fishing. Our local shop had a Fly Fishing Expo, for lack of a better term, this weekend. There were manufacturer reps and there was a TON of rods to cast. I found that the $800 and up rods were nice but the $200 rod (as an example) felt better FOR ME! Am I missing out? Not sure. However I ended up picking up an Orvis 3wt that simply "felt" good in my hands. I don't cast well as I am new to this but the folks at the local shop did not steer me to something I might not notice in an $800 rod setup.

I am happy with my purchase and happy that there were folks that did NOT steer me towards something that would either break the bank or that I would not appreciate (for lack of a better term). Perhaps in the future I will be able to appreciate the differences in various fly rods but for now the rod I purchased I will be happy with!!!