Are you talking about a "cracking the whip" action, or actually putting cracks in the line from the superglue?
Are you talking about a "cracking the whip" action, or actually putting cracks in the line from the superglue?
I use slip on leader loops on my medium to heavy wt rigs when the line doesn't come with a loop or the factory loop wears out.
I build and install double catch loops as Dan Blanton describes as others have described. The article is here
http://www.danblanton.com/blog/getting-looped/
These loops are very strong. I have them on lines I have used for tuna, giant trevally, sharks, and other big things. I have had fly lines fail but never had one of my home made loops fail.
I had several failures of the typical commercially available loops end on trout and panfish rigs. Most of these are single catch designs where the braid is pulled back into the standing part only once then typically glued with a super glue type of glue. The glued section is usually somewhat rigid and over time as this section flexes and the glue breaks down and the loop pulls apart. This is how most of the failures occurred that I had.
I also had a couple secured with tubing slip off while fighting a fish. I suspect that the tension on the line was enough that as the line stretched slightly it shrank enough that the tube loosened and the braid lost it's grip on the line.
If you use single catch loops it is a good to inspect them before and after each outing. It only takes a few seconds. I routinely check my connections regardless of types.
The most secure way to secure braided loops is with a single trap nail knot at the end of the braid where the line enters the braid. No need for glue unless you put a bit of Pliobond or other flexible glue over the nail knot so it will be smooth going through the guides. If you put glue along the between the nail knot (or heat shrink tube) you actually defeat the Chinese finger trap effect of the braid in the line. Use of non flexible glues like super glues or the use of tubing to secure the braid can lead to cracking in the flyline where the line enters the braid.
Last edited by tailingloop; 01-24-2014 at 07:44 PM.
Tailingloop answered the question and I agree with the part about defeating the Chinese finger grip part too.Originally Posted by herefishy
Also I have wondered if the pumping action of the fighting fish doesn't defeat the grip of a poorly secured loop.
Long time ago I had one of those Orvis sink tip kits that had those loops attached from the factory. You can pull on that sleeve and it will never budge. Push it downwards from the top and it will slide off way too easily. That sink tip caught a rock and disappeared forever. I don't use them because I don't trust them.
I just saw a post where a guy whip finished the end of the loop and never had any problems...
From the article, this great description
"Made properly they will slip through the guides like ladyfish slime"
Regards,
Scott
I have two reels set up, one with the loop and one without. I use the one with the loop a lot and haven't had any problems with the loot loosening. The braided sleeve acts like and old chinese finger trap, the harder you pull, the tighter it gets. Add the heat shrink and it must be nearly unbreakable. I know it is the devil to get one of those things on the fly line and I had to make two tries to get the one on. Will probably use the nail knot next time since it is the tippet that gets changed out and not the leader.
Gordon
Live every day as if it were your last.
I've used all sorts of line to leader connections. I started out with Amnesia line nail knotted to the fly line with a perfection loop for connecting to the leader. I ended up ditching these because I feel they helped make the tip sink. I even sealed the end of the fly line to help prevent this.
I've nail knotted a mono leader directly to the fly line. This isn't too bad, because there is only the one knot to contend with. The downside is that you have to cut away some of your fly line if you want to change the leader.
I've used the smallest braided leader loops from Bass Pro that I could find. (for 1-3wts, I think) and they work pretty decently. They come with a little piece of tubing on them. I ditched the tubing and whipped a knot to hold it on. I used Pliobond to taper the connection.
I recently found some very small braided connecters from Roman Moser.....'trout size'. They are short and small. They are also double walled. They are maybe a little more difficult to put on because of their smaller size. But because of their small size, they hold great. I put one on a thin silk line and it held tight before sliding the tube back onto the portion where the fly line was in the braid. So far I really like them, but time will tell if they hold up.
Brian
what tailingloop said.
only thing i would add is that i use this connection for fly line to backing only, not at the leader connection. i feel that the transition from fly line to braided nylon is too flexible and adds a hinging point in the connection between line and leader
If the loop is constructed as described in Dan's article, where the end of the line is threaded up into the tag end of the braid that has been pulled into the standing portion, you don't get that hinge.
tailingloop,
went back and checked the article to see if he was doing something different. been using the same method since about year 2000 , and still think you get a hinging effect.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote