Hazel's Dark Spey Skater SBS

[ScottP]

You steelhead folks have cool flies.


hook - Mustad 36890 #6
thread - Uni 6/0 black
tail - moose body
rib - Holo tinsel copper
body- peacock herl
legs - moose body
shell back - 2mm foam orange


Part 1


mash barb, wrap thread back to bend





clean, stack a clump of moose body hair, measure for length (1.5 hook gap), and tie in







repeat at the front for legs (let hair extend 1.5 hook gap past eye); smooth butt junction with thread wraps









tie in ribbing





tie in peacock herl, twist into rope and wrap forward about 75%

[ScottP]

Part 2

wrap rib forward, tie off and trim with herl




tie in foam strip






a little more peacock






divide moose body and sweep back

[ScottP]

Part3



pull foam forward, tie down





whip finish, trim foam, SHHAN







October Caddis version (bucktail tail/legs)







Regards,
Scott

[Uncle Jesse]

Scott, As one not familiar with steelhead hooks I am curious, they look to be very strong of a wire of substantial diameter in the same range as the wire used for plastic worm hooks used for bass fishing. What is the purpose of using an upturned eye in this case it would appear a down turned or straight eye would aid in tying the fly on to the tippet.

[ScottP]

Jesse,

Did a little research on that - apparently, the up-eye design allowed for optimal leader-to-hookshank alignment when using the Turle or double Turle knot to tie the fly to tippet; down-eye works, too. Straight-shanks don't allow this and can cause the fly to twist at an angle during casting, preventing the fly from being presented properly.

Regards,
Scott

[SMClark]

I wish to goodness you'd be Kinder to that Thumb, seems like that would be an awful handicap when tying to tie . . . mine begins to Throb every time a see the pictures of yours . . . !